Part of a pair along with (ZI2021.500952.12 EUROPE).
This square (shawl) of possible French origin dating back to the early 19th century was originally a part of the Dr Joan Coleman Collection and was part of a pair along with (ZI2021.500952.12 EUROPE). The Zay Initiative managed to acquire it from Kerry Taylor Auctions in 2021
Dr Joan Coleman began collecting shawls in 1976 and developed her lifelong passion for collecting. She was a regular at the London salesrooms of Christie’s, Sotheby’s, and Phillips – three of the most outstanding auction houses of the period in the world – getting to know the dealers and learning in the process. She acquired vast knowledge and dedicated hours carefully cataloguing her ever-growing collection. She intended to loan her collection to different museums and institutions for the benefit of learning and education. Her collection is one of the largest and the finest private shawl collections to have ever graced the world with shawls ranging from Kashmir, Paisley, Edinburgh, Norwich, France, and Iran.
This is a square woollen (Paisley_shawl) with a possible silk blend primarily in black and scarlet red with a variety of other colours. Probably manufactured in France c. 1830-40 this piece has a (Selvedge) to Selvedge (Twill_Tapestry) weave that testifies its (Jacquard) loom origin.
The body of the shawl can be roughly divided in two parts – the plain central part in black and a wide frame around it in shades of red and orange. The square black centre is invaded with fronds of swirling thistle-like floral motifs from all around. These motifs are primarily in in orange, scarlet red, (Crimson) red, and green with touches of (Turquoise)/(Pheroza) and pink highlights and emerge from the wide frame around it. This frame is primarily in scarlet, Crimson, and orange with touches of olive green and Turquoise highlights. It is composed of intricately designed (Jaal) swirling floral and elegantly thin (Paisley)/(Buta) motifs overlapping and curling around each other.
The border of the shawl is an arrangement of three banners running parallel to each other on all four sides. The top and the bottom banners are thin displaying repeats of foliage interjected with a floral motif resembling a (Fleur_de_lis) in Crimson, olive green, and scarlet with pink highlights. The middle layer which is far wider in comparison to the others is composed of a thick wavy vine in olive green with an intricate floral Jaal around it primarily in Turquoise, pink, scarlet and touches of ivory for highlights.
While the (Weft) ends have been hemmed in with an olive insert, the (Warp) ends have panels of different colours – black, scarlet, green, orange and Turquoise – with loose threads of corresponding colours hanging in a series of fringes.
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