Object History This printed silk men’s (
nagajuban
Nagajuban: (Portuguese: gibao – undershirt; Synonyms: juhan, jiban, juban), is an under kimono worn by both men and women. Usually shorter in length than the kimono, they are typically unlined and made of lightweight fabric. ) was purchased by
Dr. Reem Tariq
Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.
El Mutwalli
Dr. Reem Tariq
Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.
el Mutwallī: Founder (CEO) of the Zay
Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative, a public figure, speaker and author. An expert curator and consultant in Islamic art and architecture, interior design, historic costume, and UAE heritage. from a dealer in New York in 2017 to add to the collection of The
Zay
Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative.
Object Features This is a (chirimen
chirimen: A Japanese crepe
Crepe: (Latin: crispus; Old French: crespe – curled or frizzed), is a lightweight, crinkled fabric with a pebbled texture woven from a hand spun untreated or ‘in the gum’ silk yarn.
fabric traditionally made from silk. It has a distinctive pebbly texture and is commonly used in kimono and other traditional garments. Originally brought from China chirimen weaving extensively developed during the Edo period (1603-1868) and continues to be a popular textile in modern Japan. ) silk men’s nagajuban
Nagajuban: (Portuguese: gibao – undershirt; Synonyms: juhan, jiban, juban), is an under kimono worn by both men and women. Usually shorter in length than the kimono, they are typically unlined and made of lightweight fabric. printed in blue, grey, and green with patterns of cranes in mid-flight. The field of this
nagajuban
Nagajuban: (Portuguese: gibao – undershirt; Synonyms: juhan, jiban, juban), is an under kimono worn by both men and women. Usually shorter in length than the kimono, they are typically unlined and made of lightweight fabric. also called (
juban
Juban: (Portuguese: gibao – undershirt; Synonyms: juhan, jiban), is a type of men’s traditional undergarment in Japan. A long-sleeved, ankle-length robe traditionally made of cotton, linen, or silk in solid colours or simple pattern it is worn to protect the kimono from sweat and oil and provide an additional layer of warmth. ) is printed in large, chequered patterns in blue and light green. It has a second layer of print depicting large cranes in mid-flight possibly executed by stencil printing or (
katazome_print
Katazome_print: A traditional Japanese resist printing technique where a stencil is used to apply a rice paste resist onto fabric before dyeing, creating intricate and precise patterns. First developed as a substitute to expensive and time-consuming woven brocade it became a well-respected fabric art over time. ) technique.
A man’s (
kimono
Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. ) and (
juban
Juban: (Portuguese: gibao – undershirt; Synonyms: juhan, jiban), is a type of men’s traditional undergarment in Japan. A long-sleeved, ankle-length robe traditionally made of cotton, linen, or silk in solid colours or simple pattern it is worn to protect the kimono from sweat and oil and provide an additional layer of warmth. ) is usually identified by their sleeves. Unlike the women’s
kimono
Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. , men’s traditional Japanese garments usually retain the stitched sleeve structure from the (
kosode
Kosode: (Japanese: small sleeve or opening), a traditional Japanese inner robe for both genders. Similar to a kimono but with a wider body, longer collars, and narrower and rounded sleeves, often stitched to the body, these under robes were lavishly decorated and were worn on top from late 16th century. ) – the predecessor of the
kimono
Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. .
Traditionally,
nagajuban
Nagajuban: (Portuguese: gibao – undershirt; Synonyms: juhan, jiban, juban), is an under kimono worn by both men and women. Usually shorter in length than the kimono, they are typically unlined and made of lightweight fabric. were not lined except the sleeves which were usually lined with the same fabric of the
juban
Juban: (Portuguese: gibao – undershirt; Synonyms: juhan, jiban), is a type of men’s traditional undergarment in Japan. A long-sleeved, ankle-length robe traditionally made of cotton, linen, or silk in solid colours or simple pattern it is worn to protect the kimono from sweat and oil and provide an additional layer of warmth. . However, this piece is lined with an ivory
satin
Sātin: (Arabic: Zaytuni: from Chinese port of Zayton in Quanzhou province where it was exported from and acquired by Arab merchants), one of the three basic types of woven fabric with a glossy top surface and a dull back. Originated in China and was fundamentally woven in silk. fabric while its sleeves retain the traditional style lining.
Also, interestingly the collars of a
nagajuban
Nagajuban: (Portuguese: gibao – undershirt; Synonyms: juhan, jiban, juban), is an under kimono worn by both men and women. Usually shorter in length than the kimono, they are typically unlined and made of lightweight fabric. are much shorter in length than the
kimono
Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. and comes in two different types – gusseted stiff and flexible and soft– in this case the collars are short, soft and flexible. Men’s
nagajuban
Nagajuban: (Portuguese: gibao – undershirt; Synonyms: juhan, jiban, juban), is an under kimono worn by both men and women. Usually shorter in length than the kimono, they are typically unlined and made of lightweight fabric. are also traditionally more decorative than their kimonos.
Though The
Zay
Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative is concerned mainly with the dress and adornment heritage of the Arab world, it does include in its collection articles from areas outside the region. These tend to be collected to illustrate specific shared elements and influences attesting that the Arab world never existed in a vacuum. It constantly drew, and continues to draw, inspiration and influences from the cultures it comes in contact with be it through trade or geopolitical circumstances, especially those countries within the old silk route.
Therefore, one cannot but draw parallels between many techniques used in such garments, such as (
couching
Couching: (Latin: collocare – Place together), in needlework and embroidery couching is a technique in which yarn or other materials are laid across the surface of the ground fabric and fastened in place with small stitches of the same or a different yarn
) and thread knotting techniques (
macrame
Macrame: (French: macramé – A hand-knotted textile from Turkish: makrama – table spread or towel, from Arabic: miqrama – bedspread possibly with knotted hanging fringes resembling dangling grapes or karam in Arabic) A form of textile or fringe made by a knotting cord in geometrical patterns possibly originating in Babylon and Assyria.Macrame
Macrame: (French: macramé – A hand-knotted textile from Turkish: makrama – table spread or towel, from Arabic: miqrama – bedspread possibly with knotted hanging fringes resembling dangling grapes or karam in Arabic) A form of textile or fringe made by a knotting cord in geometrical patterns possibly originating in Babylon and Assyria.: makrəˌmā: (Arabic: karam: tree with dangling grapes), ornamental fringe. The art of knotting cord or string in patterns to make decorative articles. Earliest recorded uses of macramé-style knots as decoration appeared in Babylonian and Assyrian carvings.), or flat metal adornment (
talli
Tallī: (Turkish: tel – wire, string), Gulf Arab – a woven braided trimming made with metal wire, threads and ribbons often sewn on detachable panels used as embellishments. Other – (Synonym: tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi
Khus_dozi: (Persian: Khvosh – an Iranian province; dozi – needlework; Synonym: tariq; talli; tulle_bi_talli; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.
), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
; tariq; badla; khus_dozi
Khus_dozi: (Persian: Khvosh – an Iranian province; dozi – needlework; Synonym: tariq; talli; tulle_bi_talli; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.
), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.
), that are quite similar to those found in different parts of the Arab region.
The
kimono
Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. , in particular, displays similarities that can be drawn with the pattern of Arab women’s overgarment or the (
thawb
Thawb: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thobe
Thobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or tobe
Tobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. or tobe
Tobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women in the Arabian Gulf region. ), common to the Gulf region, constructed of three uncut panels of broad clothes forming the central body panel and the side sleeve panels very similar in shape to the
kimono
Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. .
More InfoKatazome is a traditional Japanese textile printing technique that utilizes stencils to create intricate and detailed designs on fabric. The word "katazome" translates to "stencil dyeing" in English, and the technique involves creating a stencil out of paper or other materials and then applying a resist paste to the fabric through the stencil. Once the paste has dried, the fabric is dyed, and the areas where the resist paste was applied remain undyed, creating a pattern on the fabric. Katazome stencils are typically made using a combination of hand-carving and off late machine-cutting techniques. The stencils themselves can be highly detailed, with intricate designs and patterns that can take weeks or even months to create. The resist paste used in katazome can also vary depending on the desired effect, with some pastes being more resistant to dye than others. During the Edo period (1603-1868), katazome became a popular art form among the common people in Japan, and various regional styles of the technique emerged. In addition to clothing, katazome was used to create a wide range of household items such as curtains, bedding, and tablecloths. The intricate designs and vibrant colours of katazome made it a highly sought-after craft, and the popularity of the technique continued to grow. Links
- Morishima, Yuki, et al. Kimono
Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. Refashioned: Japan’s Impact on International Fashion. USA, Asian Art Museum, 2018.
- Kahlenberg, Mary Hunt. Asian Costumes and Textiles: From the Bosphorus to Fujiama. Italy, Skira, 2001.
- Liddell, Jill. The Story of the Kimono
Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. . USA, E P Dutton, 1989.
- Dalby, Liza Crihfield. Kimono
Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. : Fashioning Culture. Reaktion Books, 1993.
- Gluckman, Dale Carolyn and Sharon Sadako Takeda. When Art Became Fashion: Kosode
Kosode: (Japanese: small sleeve or opening), a traditional Japanese inner robe for both genders. Similar to a kimono but with a wider body, longer collars, and narrower and rounded sleeves, often stitched to the body, these under robes were lavishly decorated and were worn on top from late 16th century. in Edo-Period Japan. Los Angeles County Museum of Art, 1996.
- Kimono
Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. : Kyoto to Catwalk. 27 Aug. – 25 Oct. 2020, V&A South Kensington, London https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/kimono
Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. -kyoto-to-catwalk
- Gluckman, Dale Carolyn. “Liza Dalby. Kimono
Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. : Fashioning Culture.:Kimono
Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. : Fashioning Culture.” Museum Anthropology, vol. 19, no. 1, Mar. 1995, pp. 79–81. Crossref, https://doi.org/10.1525/mua.1995.19.1.79
- “Meisen Kimono
Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. From HALI 184 - HALI.” HALI, 24 July 2015, hali.com/news/meisen-kimono
Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. .
- Kimono
Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. Style: Edo Traditions to Modern Design: The John C. Weber Collection. USA, Met Publications, www.metmuseum.org/art/metpublications/Kimono_Style
- Richard, Naomi Noble. “Nō Motifs in the Decoration of a Mid-Edo Period Kosode
Kosode: (Japanese: small sleeve or opening), a traditional Japanese inner robe for both genders. Similar to a kimono but with a wider body, longer collars, and narrower and rounded sleeves, often stitched to the body, these under robes were lavishly decorated and were worn on top from late 16th century. .” Metropolitan Museum Journal, vol. 25, 1990, pp. 175–83. JSTOR, https://doi.org/10.2307/1512899. Accessed 10 May 2023.
- Kramer, Elizabeth. “Review of ‘Kimono
Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. : A Modern History.’” Reviews in History, School of Advanced Study, 2015. Crossref, https://doi.org/10.14296/rih/2014/1787.
