Part of a pair of shawls along with (ZI2021.500952.7 EUROPE).
This printed ivory silk (long_shawl) dating back to the mid-19th century was originally a part of the Dr Joan Coleman Collection. A part of a pair of shawls along with (ZI2021.500952.7 EUROPE) this shawl was acquired by The Zay Initiative from Kerry Taylor Auctions in 2021.
Dr Joan Coleman began collecting shawls in 1976 and developed her lifelong passion for collecting. She was a regular at the London salesrooms of Christie’s, Sotheby’s, and Phillips – three of the most outstanding auction houses of the period in the world – getting to know the dealers and learning in the process. She acquired vast knowledge and dedicated hours carefully cataloguing her ever-growing collection. She intended to loan her collection to different museums and institutions for the benefit of learning and education. Her collection is one of the largest and the finest private shawl collections to have ever graced the world with shawls ranging from Kashmir, Paisley, Edinburgh, Norwich, France, and Iran.
This uniquely shaped long_shawl from Norwich c. 1860-1870 possibly originated in the workshop of “E.F.Hinde” – a prominent shawl manufacturer of the time. With an ivory silk base and printed design elements, the shawl has two curved corners on one side and a scalloped edging border running along its hems.
The body of the shawl has a dense repeat of a floral sprigged motif in pink and yellow. The border of the piece can be roughly divided into three parts. The outer edge is composed of floral scallops in pink and yellow. The inner edge of the border consists of large scallops repeated in scarlet red and sea green alternately. The space between the scallops and the inside is decorated with floral motifs primarily in pink and yellow.
The intricacy of its design and peerless execution of it in a variety of colours suggests that it was perhaps produced using the (silk_screen_printing)/(screen_printing) technique. A series of knotted (quadrille) threads are machine stitched along the hem on three sides corresponding to the curved corners. Quite a few tears adorn the surface of the shawl few of which are darned using ivory (resham)/(floss) threads bearing testament to its age and service.
E.F. Hinde was a prominent shawl manufacturer company in Norwich, England, during the 19th century. Established in the early 1800s by Edward Francis Hinde, who had previously worked as a manufacturer of fine textiles, the company gained fame and a reputation for producing high-quality shawls, which were in great demand among fashionable ladies of the time.
With a rich history of textile production Norwich became a major shawl manufacturing centre in 19th century Great Britain making the industry famous for providing employment. E. F. Hinde was amongst the most successful shawl makers of Norwich famous for producing shawls in a variety of materials including brocade. Their shawls were so highly sought after that they were sold at prestigious department stores such as Harrods and Selfridges.
Despite its success, unfortunately, by the end of the 19th century the company faced challenges because of the Franco-Prussian War and a decline in demand for shawls as a fashionable accessory, eventually leading to the company’s closure by the early 20th century.
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