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Printed ivory silk curved shawl – Norwich

Local Name	Shawl, long_shawl, Norwich_shawl
Object Category	Overgarment Cloak
Gender	Female
Place Of orgin	Europe
Region	Norwich
Object Range	England, Scotland, Wales, Ireland, France, America
Dimensions	Length: 316 cm Width: 164 cm
Materials	Silk
Technique	Machine Stitched Print
Motif	Floral
Provenance	Purchased, Dr Joan Coleman Collection, Kerry Taylor Auctions, London 2021
Location	The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative
Status	In Storage
ZI number	ZI2021.500952.8 EUROPE

Object Note
Part of a pair of shawls along with (ZI2021.500952.7 EUROPE).

Object History
This printed ivory silk () dating back to the mid-19th century was originally a part of the Dr Joan Coleman Collection. A part of a pair of shawls along with (ZI2021.500952.7 EUROPE) this was acquired by The  Initiative from Kerry Taylor Auctions in 2021. 
Dr Joan Coleman began collecting shawls in 1976 and developed her lifelong passion for collecting. She was a regular at the London salesrooms of Christie’s, Sotheby’s, and Phillips – three of the most outstanding auction houses of the period in the world – getting to know the dealers and learning in the process. She acquired vast knowledge and dedicated hours carefully cataloguing her ever-growing collection. She intended to loan her collection to different museums and institutions for the benefit of learning and education. Her collection is one of the largest and the finest private collections to have ever graced the world with shawls ranging from Kashmir, , Edinburgh, Norwich, France, and Iran. 

Object Features 
This uniquely shaped from Norwich c. 1860-1870 possibly originated in the workshop of "E.F.Hinde" – a prominent manufacturer of the time. With an ivory silk base and printed design elements, the has two curved corners on one side and a scalloped edging border running along its hems.
The body of the has a dense repeat of a floral sprigged motif in pink and yellow. The border of the piece can be roughly divided into three parts. The outer edge is composed of floral scallops in pink and yellow. The inner edge of the border consists of large scallops repeated in scarlet red and sea green alternately. The space between the scallops and the inside is decorated with floral motifs primarily in pink and yellow.
The intricacy of its design and peerless execution of it in a variety of colours suggests that it was perhaps produced using the ()/() technique. A series of knotted (quadrille) threads are machine stitched along the hem on three sides corresponding to the curved corners. Quite a few tears adorn the surface of the few of which are darned using ivory (resham Rīsham: (Persian: abrīšam – silk yarn), referring to silk threads in the Indian subcontinent and Iran.  )/() threads bearing testament to its age and service.

More Info
E.F. Hinde was a prominent manufacturer company in Norwich, England, during the 19th century. Established in the early 1800s by Edward Francis Hinde, who had previously worked as a manufacturer of fine textiles, the company gained fame and a reputation for producing high-quality shawls, which were in great demand among fashionable ladies of the time.
With a rich history of textile production Norwich became a major manufacturing centre in 19th century Great Britain making the industry famous for providing employment. E. F. Hinde was amongst the most successful makers of Norwich famous for producing shawls in a variety of materials including . Their shawls were so highly sought after that they were sold at prestigious department stores such as Harrods and Selfridges.
Despite its success, unfortunately, by the end of the 19th century the company faced challenges because of the Franco-Prussian War and a decline in demand for shawls as a fashionable accessory, eventually leading to the company’s closure by the early 20th century.

Links

Irwin, John. The Kashmir Shawls. Her Majesty's Stationary Office, 1981.

Clabburn, Pamela. Norfolk Museum's Service Information Sheet : Norwich Shawls. 1987th ed., Norfolk Museum, 1987, http://www.ctacostume.org.uk/uploads/1/1/9/5/119530260/nms_norwich_shawls_info_sheet_1987_compressed__1_.pdf

Thornton, Zita. "The Norwich Shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool. ." Antiques Info, vol. 4, 2001, http://www.antiques-info.co.uk/new/pdf/Mar01/4.pdf

Hoyet, Helen, “The Story of Norwich Shawls: Norwich Museums Shawls Collection”, https://www.ctacostume.org.uk/norwich-shawls.html

Hoyt, Helen, et al. "Norwich Shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool. ." Costume and Textile Association: Miscellany, 2016, https://www.ctacostume.org.uk/uploads/1/1/9/5/119530260/miscellany_2016_web__1_.pdf

Skarratt, Ben. "From India to Europe: The Production of the Kashmir Shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool. and the Spread of the Paisley Paisley: (Scottish Gaelic, Pàislig: a town in Scotland), often called buta Būta: (Anglicized Persian: boteh – Pinecone shaped motif), known as paisley in English it is the almond or pinecone-shaped motif, especially in textiles. It is believed to have originated from the Cyprus tree a Zoroastrian symbol for life and eternity. In the current Indian context, however, it simply means motif., boteh, amli, or kalgi in the subcontinent and kazuwah in Arabic, is a Persian tear drop motif with a curved end specially in textiles. Its popularity and subsequent local production in 18th century at Paisley are responsible for its nomenclature. Motif." Global History of Capitalism, University of Oxford, 2018, https://globalcapitalism.history.ox.ac.uk/sites/default/files/globalcapitalism/documents/media/case_04_-_the_paisley_0.pdf

"Wrapped in Centuries of Tradition & Culture: The Shawls of Kashmir in European Portrait." The Heritage Lab: Culture, Art, Museums, 9 Jan. 2019, www.theheritagelab.in/kashmir-shawls-european-portraits/

Sethi, Ritu. Handmade for the 21st Century: Safeguarding Traditional Indian Textiles. UNESCO, 2022.

Quaile, Sheilagh Dr. "Cashmere Cashmere: (Anglisized from Hindustani: Kashmir – A region or province in the Indian subcontinent), a fine soft natural wool, from the hair of goats native to the Kashmir, Ladakh and neighbouring regions of the Indian subcontinent. Often confused with Pashmina, it should be noted that all cashmeres are not pashmina. Shawls." Khan Academy, www.khanacademy.org/humanities/art-asia/south-asia/x97ec695a:1500-1850-deccan-south/a/cashmere Cashmere: (Anglisized from Hindustani: Kashmir – A region or province in the Indian subcontinent), a fine soft natural wool, from the hair of goats native to the Kashmir, Ladakh and neighbouring regions of the Indian subcontinent. Often confused with Pashmina, it should be noted that all cashmeres are not pashmina. -shawls

Van Schoor, Jennifer Ann (2019) The Indian cashmere Cashmere: (Anglisized from Hindustani: Kashmir – A region or province in the Indian subcontinent), a fine soft natural wool, from the hair of goats native to the Kashmir, Ladakh and neighbouring regions of the Indian subcontinent. Often confused with Pashmina, it should be noted that all cashmeres are not pashmina. shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool. and social status in British art, 1760-1870. [Thesis] (Unpublished) https://eprints.bbk.ac.uk/id/eprint/40406/1/VAN%20SCHOOR%20J.A.%20–%20PHD%202019-vol%201.pdf

Andrew Newey, “Cashmere Cashmere: (Anglisized from Hindustani: Kashmir – A region or province in the Indian subcontinent), a fine soft natural wool, from the hair of goats native to the Kashmir, Ladakh and neighbouring regions of the Indian subcontinent. Often confused with Pashmina, it should be noted that all cashmeres are not pashmina. Country: The Perils of Making the World’s Finest Fabric,” The Guardian (10 January 2020), https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2020/jan/10/cashmere Cashmere: (Anglisized from Hindustani: Kashmir – A region or province in the Indian subcontinent), a fine soft natural wool, from the hair of goats native to the Kashmir, Ladakh and neighbouring regions of the Indian subcontinent. Often confused with Pashmina, it should be noted that all cashmeres are not pashmina. -country-the-perils-of-making-the-worlds-finest-fabric

Maskiell, Michelle. "Consuming Kashmir: Shawls and Empires, 1500-2000." Journal of World History, vol. 13, no. 1, 2002, https://www.jstor.org/stable/20078943

Zutshi, Chitralekha. "Designed for Eternity: Kashmiri Kashmiri: (Hindustani: Kashmir – a region in South Asia), a term used to denote or identify anything related to the region – its people, their language, culture, art and craft, society etc. Shawls, Empire, and Cultures of Production and Consumption in Mid-Victorian Britain." The Journal of British Studies, vol. 48, no. 2, 2009,https://www.cambridge.org/core/journals/journal-of-british-studies/article/abs/designed-for-eternity-kashmiri Kashmiri: (Hindustani: Kashmir – a region in South Asia), a term used to denote or identify anything related to the region – its people, their language, culture, art and craft, society etc. -shawls-empire-and-cultures-of-production-and-consumption-in-midvictorian-britain/8BC637E16F9C0009A4A8097114FC630F

"Norwich Shawls: Once Ahead of the Game!" Norfolk Tales, Myths and More, 30 Mar. 2019, https://norfolktalesmyths.com/2019/03/30/norwich-shawls-once-ahead-of-the-game/

"NORWICH WEAVING 1750 -1900." Paul Harley, 22 May 2019, https://paulharley.wordpress.com/category/norwich-shawls/

https://www.gutenberg.org/files/64006/64006-h/64006-h.htm

Collecting Guides: Kashmir Shawls, Christie’s, https://www.christies.com/features/Collecting-Guide-Kashmir-Shawls-9890-1.aspx

A Moon Shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool. (Chandar Chāndar: (Hindustani: chānd – moon; dar – derivative of chadar – a mantle or a covering; Synonym: Moon_shawl), were originally luxurious hand-woven shawls that originated in 17th century Kashmir and were characterized by a central circular medallion in an otherwise plain square field with four quarter medallions one in each corner. ), Christie’s, https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/important-private-collection-kashmir-shawls/moon-shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool. -chandar Chāndar: (Hindustani: chānd – moon; dar – derivative of chadar – a mantle or a covering; Synonym: Moon_shawl), were originally luxurious hand-woven shawls that originated in 17th century Kashmir and were characterized by a central circular medallion in an otherwise plain square field with four quarter medallions one in each corner. -7/71406

A Double Sided Long Shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool. (Dorukha), Christie’s, https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/important-private-collection-kashmir-shawls/double-sided-long-shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool. -doruka-1/71402

A Kashmir Paisley Paisley: (Scottish Gaelic, Pàislig: a town in Scotland), often called buta Būta: (Anglicized Persian: boteh – Pinecone shaped motif), known as paisley in English it is the almond or pinecone-shaped motif, especially in textiles. It is believed to have originated from the Cyprus tree a Zoroastrian symbol for life and eternity. In the current Indian context, however, it simply means motif., boteh, amli, or kalgi in the subcontinent and kazuwah in Arabic, is a Persian tear drop motif with a curved end specially in textiles. Its popularity and subsequent local production in 18th century at Paisley are responsible for its nomenclature. Shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool. , Christie’s, https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/collection-paul-f-walter/kashmir-paisley Paisley: (Scottish Gaelic, Pàislig: a town in Scotland), often called buta Būta: (Anglicized Persian: boteh – Pinecone shaped motif), known as paisley in English it is the almond or pinecone-shaped motif, especially in textiles. It is believed to have originated from the Cyprus tree a Zoroastrian symbol for life and eternity. In the current Indian context, however, it simply means motif., boteh, amli, or kalgi in the subcontinent and kazuwah in Arabic, is a Persian tear drop motif with a curved end specially in textiles. Its popularity and subsequent local production in 18th century at Paisley are responsible for its nomenclature.-shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool. -616/46985

Eastaugh, Nicky. "Norwich Shawls: Past Glory, Present Inspiration." Nicky Eastaugh's Learning Log for Textiles, 14 Oct. 2016, nickyeastaughmixedmediafortextiles.wordpress.com/2016/10/19/norwich-shawls-past-glory-present-inspiration-14-october-2016/.

Printed ivory silk curved shawl – Norwich

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