Printed cotton fabric panel – Japan

Object History 
This cotton-printed rectangular fabric was gifted to Dr. Reem Tariq El Mutwalli Dr. Reem Tariq el Mutwallī: Founder (CEO) of the Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative, a public figure, speaker and author. An expert curator and consultant in Islamic art and architecture, interior design, historic costume, and UAE heritage. by Ms. Manami Tominaga, a Japanese lady living in the UAE, in 2017. It was eventually added to The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative collection.
 
Object Features   
This is a cotton fabric with floral motifs in (indigo Indigo: (Latin: Indigo – India, synonym: nil Nīl: (Latin: indigo), Arabised term for Indigo, a natural dye belonging to the ‘Indigofera Tinctoria’ species of plants that have been cultivated in East Asia, Egypt, India, and Peru since antiquity. According to Pliny the Elder, it was named after India as it was the source of the dye.), a natural dye belonging to the ‘Indigofera Tinctoria’ species of plants that has been cultivated in East Asia, Egypt, India, and Peru since antiquity. According to Pliny the Elder, it was named after India as it was the source of the dye.  ) blue stencil printing or (katazome_print Katazome_print: A traditional Japanese resist printing technique where a stencil is used to apply a rice paste resist onto fabric before dyeing, creating intricate and precise patterns. First developed as a substitute to expensive and time-consuming woven brocade it became a well-respected fabric art over time. ) technique.
It has a thick border in two tiers. The first tier or the outermost layer is filled with dotted repeats and the second tier, or the inner layer is a floral repeat with dots and wavy lines. The main field of the fabric is filled with repeats of a dotted floral motif.
 
More info
Katazome is a traditional Japanese textile printing technique that utilizes stencils to create intricate and detailed designs on fabric. The word "katazome" translates to "stencil dyeing" in English, and the technique involves creating a stencil out of paper or other materials and then applying a resist paste to the fabric through the stencil. Once the paste has dried, the fabric is dyed, and the areas where the resist paste was applied remain undyed, creating a pattern on the fabric. 
Katazome stencils are typically made using a combination of hand-carving and off-late machine-cutting techniques. The stencils themselves can be highly detailed, with intricate designs and patterns that can take weeks or even months to create. The resist paste used in katazome can also vary depending on the desired effect, with some pastes being more resistant to dye than others. 
During the Edo period (1603-1868), katazome became a popular art form among the common people in Japan, and various regional styles of the technique emerged. In addition to clothing, katazome was used to create a wide range of household items such as curtains, bedding, and tablecloths. The intricate designs and vibrant colours of katazome made it a highly sought-after craft, and the popularity of the technique continued to grow. 
 
Links

• Shibori Shibori: (Japanese: Shiboru – To wring, squeeze, or press), is a Japanese technique of manual dyeing that involves manipulating fabric to create patterns by binding, twisting, folding, or compressing it before dyeing. The history of Shibori dates back to the 8th century and has been used in the creation of a variety of fabrics, including kimono and futon covers.  Tie Dye Techniques - 5 Ways! Folding & PVC Pipe


• Katazome Start to Finish with John Marshall


• Katazome Documentary at Daiwa Senko

• Morishima, Yuki, et al. Kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan.  Refashioned: Japan’s Impact on International Fashion. USA, Asian Art Museum, 2018. 

• Kahlenberg, Mary Hunt. Asian Costumes and Textiles: From the Bosphorus to Fujiama. Italy, Skira, 2001. 

• Liddell, Jill. The Story of the Kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. . USA, E P Dutton, 1989. 

• Dalby, Liza Crihfield. Kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. : Fashioning Culture. Reaktion Books, 1993. 

• Gluckman, Dale Carolyn and Sharon Sadako Takeda. When Art Became Fashion: Kosode Kosode: (Japanese: small sleeve or opening), a traditional Japanese inner robe for both genders. Similar to a kimono but with a wider body, longer collars, and narrower and rounded sleeves, often stitched to the body, these under robes were lavishly decorated and were worn on top from late 16th century.  in Edo-Period Japan. Los Angeles County Museum of Art, 1996. 


• Kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. : Kyoto to Catwalk. 27 Aug. – 25 Oct. 2020, V&A South Kensington, London https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. -kyoto-to-catwalk 


• Gluckman, Dale Carolyn. “Liza Dalby. Kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. : Fashioning Culture.:Kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. : Fashioning Culture.” Museum Anthropology, vol. 19, no. 1, Mar. 1995, pp. 79–81. Crossref, https://doi.org/10.1525/mua.1995.19.1.79

 

• “Meisen Kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan.  From HALI 184 - HALI.” HALI, 24 July 2015, hali.com/news/meisen-kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. .


• Kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan.  Style: Edo Traditions to Modern Design: The John C. Weber Collection. USA, Met Publications, www.metmuseum.org/art/metpublications/Kimono_Style 

• Kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan.  Refashioned. 8 Feb. – 5 May, 2019, Asian Art Museum, San Francisco https://exhibitions.asianart.org/exhibitions/kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. -refashioned/ 

• Takeda, Sharon Sadako. Monumenta Nipponica, vol. 49, no. 2, 1994, pp. 245–47. JSTOR,https://doi.org/10.2307/2385177. Accessed 10 May 2023. 

• Guth, Christine. Journal of Japanese Studies, vol. 20, no. 2, 1994, pp. 518–22. JSTOR, https://doi.org/10.2307/133209. Accessed 10 May 2023. 

• Richard, Naomi Noble. “Nō Motifs in the Decoration of a Mid-Edo Period Kosode Kosode: (Japanese: small sleeve or opening), a traditional Japanese inner robe for both genders. Similar to a kimono but with a wider body, longer collars, and narrower and rounded sleeves, often stitched to the body, these under robes were lavishly decorated and were worn on top from late 16th century. .” Metropolitan Museum Journal, vol. 25, 1990, pp. 175–83. JSTOR, https://doi.org/10.2307/1512899. Accessed 10 May 2023. 

• Kramer, Elizabeth. “Review of ‘Kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. : A Modern History.’” Reviews in History, School of Advanced Study, 2015. Crossref, https://doi.org/10.14296/rih/2014/1787. 

• https://daily.jstor.org/the-surprising-history-of-the-kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. / 

• https://artsandculture.google.com/story/the-origin-of-kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. -the-kyoto-museum-of-traditional-crafts/iQWRIzW_YsXFJQ?hl=en 

• https://www.kyohaku.go.jp/eng/collection/meihin/senshoku/item07/ 

•   https://blog.nms.ac.uk/2021/12/03/stories-in-silk/ 

• https://www.si.edu/object/kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. %3Achndm_1931-4-65 

• https://www.tmja.org.il/eng/Exhibitions/493/Decorative_Motifs_in_Japanese_Art 

• https://www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/A_2014-3009-61 

• https://www.jstor.org/stable/4101580?origin=crossref 

• https://www.britannica.com/event/Genroku-period 

• https://artsandculture.google.com/story/fashion-books-of-the-edo-period-kyoto-prefectural-library-and-archives/OwXxeSDqD6O5Lw?hl=en 

• https://www.rochestertextile.com/post/398841446836/japanese-crepe Crepe: (Latin: crispus; Old French: crespe – curled or frizzed), is a lightweight, crinkled fabric with a pebbled texture woven from a hand spun untreated or ‘in the gum’ silk yarn. -fabrics-chirimen chirimen: A Japanese crepe Crepe: (Latin: crispus; Old French: crespe – curled or frizzed), is a lightweight, crinkled fabric with a pebbled texture woven from a hand spun untreated or ‘in the gum’ silk yarn.  fabric traditionally made from silk. It has a distinctive pebbly texture and is commonly used in kimono and other traditional garments. Originally brought from China chirimen weaving extensively developed during the Edo period (1603-1868) and continues to be a popular textile in modern Japan. -kinsha 


• https://www.kyoto-museums.jp/en/museum/east/3754/ 


• https://www.kitchenstudiofactory.com/critical-craft-biography/rags-to-riches-kosode Kosode: (Japanese: small sleeve or opening), a traditional Japanese inner robe for both genders. Similar to a kimono but with a wider body, longer collars, and narrower and rounded sleeves, often stitched to the body, these under robes were lavishly decorated and were worn on top from late 16th century. -to-kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan.