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Embroidered satin women’s jacket – Southeast Asia

Local Name	-
Object Category	Overgarment
Gender	Female
Place Of orgin	Asia
Region	Unknown
Object Range	China, Japan, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore
Dimensions	Length: 130 cm Width: 130 cm
Materials	Silk
Technique	Hand Embroidered
Color
Motif	Floral Animal
Provenance	Purchased, dealer, London 2017
Location	The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative
Status	In Storage
ZI number	ZI2017.500924 ASIA

Object History
This vibrant green jacket was purchased by in 2017 from a dealer in London to add to The Initiative collection.

Object Features 
This is a beautiful bottle green silk jacket in () weave with () embroidered embellishments in a range of colours.
The piece is a typical Western style women’s jacket; however, the fabric is of Far Eastern origin. From its design distribution, it could have been either a panel made for the European market which was then constructed into a women’s jacket or a () that was repurposed. Either way, the scrumptious piece is heavily embellished that depicts large idyllic scenery with cranes and bamboo trees alongside blooms like peonies and water lilies.
The embellishment is executed in embroidery primarily in ivory, light green, brown, shades of beige and pink, lavender, and grey silk threads. The piece is completely unlined and has a large folded or rolled collar with long loose bell-shaped sleeves.
While the origin of certain techniques and methods in textiles like embroidery can be traced to China, and its spread across the world could be attributed to the Silk Road, other similar techniques and styles are believed to have originated independently in different regions of the world almost simultaneously in human history possibly from necessity and convenience.
Though The Initiative is concerned mainly with the dress and adornment heritage of the Arab world, it does include in its collection articles from areas outside the region. These tend to be collected to illustrate specific shared elements and influences attesting that the Arab world never existed in a vacuum. It constantly drew, and continues to draw, inspiration and influences from the cultures it comes in contact with be it through trade or geopolitical circumstances, especially those countries within the old silk route.
Therefore, one cannot but draw parallels between many techniques used in such garments, such as () and thread knotting techniques (), or flat metal adornment ( ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.

; tariq; badla; ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

), that are quite similar to those found in different parts of the Arab region.
The , in particular, displays similarities that can be drawn with the pattern of Arab women’s overgarment or the (), common to the Gulf region, constructed of three uncut panels of broad clothes forming the central body panel and the side sleeve panels very similar in shape to the .

Links

https://blogs.brown.edu/amst-1905l-s01-spring-2017/cheongsam Cheongsam: (From Cantonese: chèuhngsāam; from Shanghainese: zansae – Long shirt or dress; Synonym – Qipao Qipao: (Synonym – cheongsam), meaning ‘Banner robes’ were originally traditional Manchu long loose robes worn over trousers. In the early 20th century, it morphed into its present form and incorporated Western style in the 1920s and became interchangeable with a cheongsam. ), was originally a traditional Chinese long gown with high collars and a form-fitting silhouette. It morphed into its present form in the early 20th century and incorporated Western style in the 1920s and became interchangeable with a qipao Qipao: (Synonym – cheongsam), meaning ‘Banner robes’ were originally traditional Manchu long loose robes worn over trousers. In the early 20th century, it morphed into its present form and incorporated Western style in the 1920s and became interchangeable with a cheongsam. . -then-and-now/

https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/83978

https://eresources.nlb.gov.sg/infopedia/articles/SIP_2013-09-27_171732.html

http://en.chinaculture.org/library/2008-01/28/content_43933.htm

https://www.thepankou.com/qipao Qipao: (Synonym – cheongsam), meaning ‘Banner robes’ were originally traditional Manchu long loose robes worn over trousers. In the early 20th century, it morphed into its present form and incorporated Western style in the 1920s and became interchangeable with a cheongsam. -cheongsam Cheongsam: (From Cantonese: chèuhngsāam; from Shanghainese: zansae – Long shirt or dress; Synonym – Qipao Qipao: (Synonym – cheongsam), meaning ‘Banner robes’ were originally traditional Manchu long loose robes worn over trousers. In the early 20th century, it morphed into its present form and incorporated Western style in the 1920s and became interchangeable with a cheongsam. ), was originally a traditional Chinese long gown with high collars and a form-fitting silhouette. It morphed into its present form in the early 20th century and incorporated Western style in the 1920s and became interchangeable with a qipao Qipao: (Synonym – cheongsam), meaning ‘Banner robes’ were originally traditional Manchu long loose robes worn over trousers. In the early 20th century, it morphed into its present form and incorporated Western style in the 1920s and became interchangeable with a cheongsam. . -edging/

Embroidered satin women’s jacket – Southeast Asia

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