Embellished silk coif – Sa’fan

Object Note 

Part of a set along with another item (ZI2018.500288 YEMEN) also in the collection.  

Object History  

This piece was purchased by Dr. Reem Tariq

Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli

Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.

; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.

El Mutwalli Dr. Reem Tariq

Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli

Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.

; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.

el Mutwallī: Founder (CEO) of the Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative, a public figure, speaker and author. An expert curator and consultant in Islamic art and architecture, interior design, historic costume, and UAE heritage. from a Sana’a-based Yemeni independent dealer, Zakariyah Ahmed, in 2018, to be added to and enhance The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative collection. 

Mr. Ahmed, like many others, reached out to the team shortly after the launch of The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period.’s digital archive in 2019. An antique and silver dealer from Yemen and a close supporter of The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period., Mr Ahmed has sourced many items, especially from Yemen and the KSA, for the collection.  

We at The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. will remain forever grateful to Mr Ahmed for his gracious support and help. 

Object Features  

This is a woman’s coif or cap (gargush

Gargūsh: (Arabic: Qarqūsh), a hood-shaped coif traditionally worn by women of the Jewish community in Yemen. In this case, the name is a variant of the original Arabic word in the local Yemeni dialect.

) in the shape of a hood. Constructed of an Ottoman-style striped silk (çitari) fabric, the piece features metal-thread embroidery.  

The field of the gargush

Gargūsh: (Arabic: Qarqūsh), a hood-shaped coif traditionally worn by women of the Jewish community in Yemen. In this case, the name is a variant of the original Arabic word in the local Yemeni dialect.

is constructed of an Ottoman-style çitari fabric, woven with embellished silver metal thread primarily in a (couching

Couching: (Latin: collocare – Place together), in needlework and embroidery couching is a technique in which yarn or other materials are laid across the surface of the ground fabric and fastened in place with small stitches of the same or a different yarn

) style embroidery technique. A thin panel borders the front and side edges of the gargush

Gargūsh: (Arabic: Qarqūsh), a hood-shaped coif traditionally worn by women of the Jewish community in Yemen. In this case, the name is a variant of the original Arabic word in the local Yemeni dialect.

in possibly (blanket_stitch Blanket_stitch: A basic sewing stitch used to secure the edges of fabric or create decorative borders by looping the thread over the edges of blankets, quilts, and other fabrics and pulling it through, forming a series of evenly spaced stitches that resemble a chain. ) style. Both the side fields have a heavy square base with various geometric-shaped fillers – circles, rhombus, and squares – using couching

Couching: (Latin: collocare – Place together), in needlework and embroidery couching is a technique in which yarn or other materials are laid across the surface of the ground fabric and fastened in place with small stitches of the same or a different yarn

(herringbone_stitch

Herringbone_stitch: a decorative stitch that creates a V-shaped pattern, resembling fish bones. It's commonly used in embroidery, sewing, and quilting to join fabrics or for decorative detailing. The stitch is worked diagonally and often gives a clean, attractive finish.

), and possibly (buttonhole_stitch

Buttonhole_stitch: It is a decorative embroidery or looped stitch that is worked around the edge of an opening like the edges of buttonholes, creating a strong durable and neat finish. 

) styles. 

A large roundel sits atop each of the squares. Each roundel is composed of concentric circles made by looping the metal thread. Between the two roundels in the middle above the forehead rests a small cross also embroidered with silver thread in couching

Couching: (Latin: collocare – Place together), in needlework and embroidery couching is a technique in which yarn or other materials are laid across the surface of the ground fabric and fastened in place with small stitches of the same or a different yarn

style.  

Although the piece is entirely lined with a plain ivory cotton fabric, the embroidery has been executed over it, making it readily apparent that it is thoroughly hand-embroidered. Additionally, it is also easily noticeable that it has been meticulously hand-stitched, too.  

Although not much is known about this particular piece, gargush

Gargūsh: (Arabic: Qarqūsh), a hood-shaped coif traditionally worn by women of the Jewish community in Yemen. In this case, the name is a variant of the original Arabic word in the local Yemeni dialect.

was typically worn by Jewish women of Yemen. It remains unclear whether Muslim and Christian women of Yemen ever adopted the gargush

Gargūsh: (Arabic: Qarqūsh), a hood-shaped coif traditionally worn by women of the Jewish community in Yemen. In this case, the name is a variant of the original Arabic word in the local Yemeni dialect.

. Most sources identify the gargush

Gargūsh: (Arabic: Qarqūsh), a hood-shaped coif traditionally worn by women of the Jewish community in Yemen. In this case, the name is a variant of the original Arabic word in the local Yemeni dialect.

as exclusively Jewish headwear, while a few mention its use by Yemeni Muslims. However, no sources conclusively state that Christian women wore the gargush

Gargūsh: (Arabic: Qarqūsh), a hood-shaped coif traditionally worn by women of the Jewish community in Yemen. In this case, the name is a variant of the original Arabic word in the local Yemeni dialect.

. The presence of a cross on this particular piece suggests that, while the gargush

Gargūsh: (Arabic: Qarqūsh), a hood-shaped coif traditionally worn by women of the Jewish community in Yemen. In this case, the name is a variant of the original Arabic word in the local Yemeni dialect.

was predominantly used by Jewish women, it may have also been adopted by women of other communities, such as Muslims and Christians, albeit less frequently. This occasional adoption could explain the presence of Christian iconography in some surviving examples such as this.

More details 

Headdresses such as this, alongside other more complicated forms of coifs, sometimes with a trail, were often elaborately decorated with amulets and were worn by women all over Yemen. However, decorations and style would differ depending upon the local forms and traditions, as well as occasions.  

The most commonly worn coif or gargush

Gargūsh: (Arabic: Qarqūsh), a hood-shaped coif traditionally worn by women of the Jewish community in Yemen. In this case, the name is a variant of the original Arabic word in the local Yemeni dialect.

by married women in Sana'a was the (gargush

Gargūsh: (Arabic: Qarqūsh), a hood-shaped coif traditionally worn by women of the Jewish community in Yemen. In this case, the name is a variant of the original Arabic word in the local Yemeni dialect.

_gadifah), typically made of black velvet. It was often adorned with silver work bands around the front border, ending in silver chains and pendants. These coifs were worn on the Sabbath, religious holidays, and at informal gatherings. When out in the streets, women would often cover the (gargush_gadifah

Gargūsh_gadīfah: (Arabic: qadifah – velvet), a hood shaped coif made of velvet traditionally worn by women of the Jewish community in Yemen.

) with a kerchief. 

In traditional Yemenite Jewish culture, girls would wear their first gargush

Gargūsh: (Arabic: Qarqūsh), a hood-shaped coif traditionally worn by women of the Jewish community in Yemen. In this case, the name is a variant of the original Arabic word in the local Yemeni dialect.

at the age of seven, typically a simple one with minimal silver decorations. Around the age of 12, they would receive a more elaborate costume and gargush

Gargūsh: (Arabic: Qarqūsh), a hood-shaped coif traditionally worn by women of the Jewish community in Yemen. In this case, the name is a variant of the original Arabic word in the local Yemeni dialect.

. 

These were the (gargush_mkharrat

Gargūsh_mkharraṭ: (Arabic: Mkharrat – conical shape), a hood shaped coif traditionally worn by women of the Jewish community in Yemen. These particular pieces are more conical in shape than others and may also feature triangular shaped embellished patterns.

), an elaborate triangular coif worn by young Jewish girls. The name derives from the triangular shapes present in both the overall design of the gargush

Gargūsh: (Arabic: Qarqūsh), a hood-shaped coif traditionally worn by women of the Jewish community in Yemen. In this case, the name is a variant of the original Arabic word in the local Yemeni dialect.

and its embroidery. Triangles were believed to have amuletic protective power, making them especially suitable for girls. Black velvet was the preferred fabric as the base material, covered in tiny red triangles made from coral Coral: (Greek: korallion, probably from Hebrew: goral – small pebbles), is a pale to medium shade of pink with orange or peach undertones, resembling the colour of certain species of coral.. The front border of the coif featured a cord attachment, knitted silver thread bands, silver chains and beads, as well as pearl-like beads, filigree plaques, and silver cords.  

Bridal gargush

Gargūsh: (Arabic: Qarqūsh), a hood-shaped coif traditionally worn by women of the Jewish community in Yemen. In this case, the name is a variant of the original Arabic word in the local Yemeni dialect.

were considered highly ornate headpieces, entirely covered in gold-patterned brocade Brocade: (Italian: brocco – twisted thread), is a richly decorative fabric woven with an intricate raised pattern. Its origins can be traced back to ancient China, where it was made for the imperial court. It later spread to Europe during the Renaissance and became popular in couture and decorative arts.  and adorned with golden ornaments. After marriage, women were required to wear a gargush

Gargūsh: (Arabic: Qarqūsh), a hood-shaped coif traditionally worn by women of the Jewish community in Yemen. In this case, the name is a variant of the original Arabic word in the local Yemeni dialect.

when outside or in the presence of visitors. 

Beyond signifying modesty, gargush

Gargūsh: (Arabic: Qarqūsh), a hood-shaped coif traditionally worn by women of the Jewish community in Yemen. In this case, the name is a variant of the original Arabic word in the local Yemeni dialect.

also served as signs of sexuality. Wearing make-up while donning a gargush

Gargūsh: (Arabic: Qarqūsh), a hood-shaped coif traditionally worn by women of the Jewish community in Yemen. In this case, the name is a variant of the original Arabic word in the local Yemeni dialect.

was interpreted as a display of sexual desire towards her husband. At the same time, in public, a woman’s loose gargush

Gargūsh: (Arabic: Qarqūsh), a hood-shaped coif traditionally worn by women of the Jewish community in Yemen. In this case, the name is a variant of the original Arabic word in the local Yemeni dialect.

would be perceived as signs of promiscuity.