Embellished Silk and Cotton Trousers – Hatta

Object Note  

Part of a lot with three more items (ZI2018.500306.2 UAE, ZI2018.500306.3 UAE, and ZI2018.500306.4 UAE) also in the collection.  

Object History 

This piece was purchased by Dr. Reem Tariq

Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli

Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.

; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.

El Mutwalli Dr. Reem Tariq

Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli

Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.

; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.

el Mutwallī: Founder (CEO) of the Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative, a public figure, speaker and author. An expert curator and consultant in Islamic art and architecture, interior design, historic costume, and UAE heritage. from Mariam Khalfan Mohammed al Maydi al Bidwawi in Hatta, 2018, to be added to and enhance The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative collection. 

Ms. Mariam has maintained a longstanding and meaningful association with The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative. Her initial contact with Dr. Reem was made via a social media platform, where she generously offered her services as a volunteer, particularly in sourcing material culture from remote regions of the northern Emirates. Since then, she has played an instrumental role in furthering the Initiative’s mission. Her sustained contributions and commitment are deeply valued and have had a lasting impact on the collection's development. We at The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. shall be forever grateful for her gracious contributions and assistance. 

Object Features  

This is a pair of ankle-length black tapered trousers (sarwal

Ṣarwāl: (Farsi: shalvār; Synonym: salwar, shirwāl), trousers featuring tapering ankles and drawstring closure of Central Asian origin. They disseminated in the Indian subcontinent between c.1st-3rd century BCE. Although exact period of its arrival in the Arab world is disputed their widespread adoption is confirmed from the 12th century.

). With a gathered waistline, it has a drawstring fastening. These sarwals are usually traditionally worn by women of the Arabian Peninsula, Iran, as well as South Asia. 

Constructed of a plain woven fabric of possibly cotton and silk blend, the field of these sarwal

Ṣarwāl: (Farsi: shalvār; Synonym: salwar, shirwāl), trousers featuring tapering ankles and drawstring closure of Central Asian origin. They disseminated in the Indian subcontinent between c.1st-3rd century BCE. Although exact period of its arrival in the Arab world is disputed their widespread adoption is confirmed from the 12th century.

is primarily plain with embroidered patterns adorning the pair near its slitted cuffs (badlah

Bādlah: (Hindustani: badal – cloud from Sanskirt: vārdala – water; Synonym: tariq; talli

Tallī: (Turkish: tel – wire, string), Gulf Arab – a woven braided trimming made with metal wire, threads and ribbons often sewn on detachable panels used as embellishments. Other – (Synonym: tulle_bi_talli

Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.

; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; tulle_bi_talli

Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.

; khus_dozi

Khus_dozi: (Arabic: khus – straw from Akkadian – kikkišu – piled up reed; Persian: dozi – needlework; Synonym: tariq; talli

Tallī: (Turkish: tel – wire, string), Gulf Arab – a woven braided trimming made with metal wire, threads and ribbons often sewn on detachable panels used as embellishments. Other – (Synonym: tulle_bi_talli

Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.

; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; tulle_bi_talli

Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.

; bādla, naqdah Naqdah: (Arabic: coins, synonyms: mnaghadah, naghdah, mnaghadah) Since silver was a form of currency, it came to refer to silver adorned garments. The term refers to articles decorated with silver (tallī) straw (khūs) in small coin-like dots. The (qāf) is pronounced (gha) colloquially., naghdah Naghdah: (Arabic: mnaqad: with coins, synonyms: mnaghadah, mnaghad, mnaghadah). Since silver was a form of currency, it came to refer to silver adorned garments. The term refers to articles decorated with silver (tallī) straw (khūs) in small coin-like dots. The (qāf) is pronounced (gha) colloquially.), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.

). It is embroidered in (satin_stitch Satin_stitch: (Synonym: Damask Stitch), is a type of flat embroidery stitch that creates a satin like smooth and shiny surface by closely spaced stitches, covering an entire area or shape.) style, with possibly gilded metal thread.  

Each cuff features a wide band of foliage repeats of triangular shapes alternately flipped. The band is framed by a thin panel of wavy rhombus repeats on the bottom and the edge of the side slits. A horizontal line of wavy triangular repeats sits atop the band with foliage patterns sprouting between each triangle. 

These foliage patterns are continued above the band on the field encircling the lower calf of the piece in sporadic repeats. The cuffs have zip fastenings to loosen or tighten the trousers at the ankles according to the wearer’s convenience. 

The sarwal

Ṣarwāl: (Farsi: shalvār; Synonym: salwar, shirwāl), trousers featuring tapering ankles and drawstring closure of Central Asian origin. They disseminated in the Indian subcontinent between c.1st-3rd century BCE. Although exact period of its arrival in the Arab world is disputed their widespread adoption is confirmed from the 12th century.

has a narrow waistband that functions as a drawstring slot. A primarily unlined piece the pair features white cotton gauze Gauze: (English), very fine wire mesh transparent fabric of silk, linen, or cotton. lining only along the embroidered parts of the cuffs.