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Embellished leather shoes – Egypt

Back
Local NameMarkub
Object CategoryAccessory    
GenderFemale    
Date of objectc. 19th – 20th century
Place Of orginEgypt
RegionSiwa
Object RangeEgypt
DimensionsSize 37
MaterialsLeather    Silk    
TechniqueHand Stitched    Hand Embroidered    Other    
Color
MotifGeometric    
ProvenancePurchased, Anonymous, Egypt 2021
LocationThe Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative
StatusIn Storage
ZI numberZI2021.500954f EGYPT

Object Note  

Part of a lot with six more items (ZI2021.500954 EGYPT, ZI2021.500954a EGYPT, ZI2021.500954b EGYPT, ZI2021.500954c EGYPT, ZI2021.500954d EGYPT, and ZI2021.500954e EGYPT) also in the collection. 


Object History 

This piece was purchased by Dr. Reem Tariq

Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli

Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.

; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.

El Mutwalli Dr. Reem Tariq

Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli

Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.

; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.

el Mutwallī: Founder (CEO) of the Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative, a public figure, speaker and author. An expert curator and consultant in Islamic art and architecture, interior design, historic costume, and UAE heritage. in Egypt in 2021 to be added to and enhance the Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative collection. 

Originally part of the Shahira Mehrez collection, the piece was purchased by a previous collector who remains anonymous to The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period.. Ms Mehrez graciously guided Dr Reem and The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. in sourcing the item from them for the benefit of The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative.  

Ms. Shahira Mehrez is recognized as one of Egypt's foremost costume historians and collectors, and she serves as an honorary advisor to The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative. Born into an affluent Egyptian family during the British occupation, Ms. Mehrez was educated in French schools, with French often being the language spoken at home. Nevertheless, her family was committed to ensuring she learned Arabic and hired a religious teacher to help her memorize the Quran. 

Ms. Mehrez is the author of Costumes of Egypt: The Lost Legacies and holds a postgraduate master's degree in Islamic art and architecture, a field she pursued after discovering her passion for Egyptian heritage and folklore, despite originally earning an undergraduate bachelor's degree in chemistry. She has been deeply dedicated to preserving Egyptian handicrafts, folklore, and traditional costumes, spanning from ancient Egyptian civilization to the present day. In her efforts to expand her research, Ms. Mehrez has collected various traditional costumes from twelve different regions across Egypt. 


Object Features  

This is a pair of slip-on style shoes (markub), possibly from the Siwa oasis, constructed of red leather and embellished with embroidery. While the front of the shoe features a large triangle composed of smaller triangles embroidered in (satin_stitch Satin_stitch: (Synonym: Damask Stitch), is a type of flat embroidery stitch that creates a satin like smooth and shiny surface by closely spaced stitches, covering an entire area or shape.) style with orange, green, blue, and yellow silk floss Floss: (Old French: flosche – nap of velvet), is a type of silk fibre obtained from the cocoons of wild silkworms. It is characterized by its long, fluffy fibers that are not tightly woven, making it ideal for use in various textile applications such as embroidery, lace-making, and sewing. threads, topped with a small rhomboidal shape, the sides display a small leaf-like shape in yellow on either side. The front near the ankle has two rhomboidal shapes in orange and green. The back of each pair has a braided ivory cord that possibly acts both as a stitch and a decoration running vertically down the middle of the ankle. The pair has a leather sole with thin heels.  


Links 

  • Mehrez, S. Costumes of Egypt. First, Institut Français D’Archéologie Orientale, 2023. 
  • Rugh, A. B. Reveal and Conceal. First, Syracuse University Press, 1986. 
  • Bos, J. Egypt’s Wearable Heritage. First, Blikvelduitgevers Publishers, 2016. 
  • RAWI Egypt’s Heritage Review, no. 11, 2021. 
  • Devine, Dawn, and Alisha Westerfeld. The Cloth of Egypt All About Assiut: Assiut – Asyut – Tulle-Bi-Telli. Ibexa Press, 2014.  
  • Golden Ages, Dark Ages: Imagining the Past in Anthropology and History. United States, University of California Press, 2021. 
  • Baker, Patricia L. A History of Islamic Court Dress in the Middle East, Thesis (Ph.D.) - University of London, 1986.  
  • Ahmed, Doaa, and Marwa Yassin. “The art of traditional embroidery of Siwa Oasis as an inspiration source for the design of innovative woven women’s clothing fabrics.” International Design Journal, vol. 13, no. 4, 1 July 2023, pp. 235–257, https://doi.org/10.21608/idj.2023.305345. 
  • Lugatism. “Headwear and Footwear in the Mamluk Sultanate (1250–1517 CE).” Lugatism, 14 Feb. 2024, https://lugatism.wordpress.com/2022/06/22/headwear-and-footwear-in-the-mamluk-sultanate-2/ 
  • “The Tanzimat Reforms (1839–76).” Encyclopædia Britannica, Encyclopædia Britannica, inc., www.britannica.com/place/Ottoman-Empire/The-Tanzimat-reforms-1839-76. Accessed 31 Mar. 2024. 
  • “Ancient Egyptian Agriculture.” Ancient Egyptian Agriculture  | Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations, https://www.fao.org/country-showcase/item-detail/en/c/1287824/#:~:text=Their%20farming%20practices%20allowed%20them,field%20planting%20in%20the%20floodplains. 
  • Maadi, CSA. “Ten Thousand Years of Wearing Linen.” CSA Reviving Community, CSA Reviving Community, 3 Aug. 2023, https://csa-living.org/oasis-blog/ten-thousand-years-of-wearing-linen 

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