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Embellished silk waist and head band – Iraq

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Local Name-
Object CategoryAccessory    
GenderFemale    
Date of objectc. 20th century
Place Of orginIraq
RegionIraq
Object RangeIraq, Iran, Türkiye, Syria, Armenia, Azerbaijan et al.
DimensionsLength: 134 cm Width: 26 cm
MaterialsSilk    Metal    
TechniqueHand Stitched    
Color
MotifGeometric    Other    
ProvenanceGifted, Abu Sarah, UAE 2018
LocationThe Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative
StatusIn Storage
ZI numberZI2018.500514.3 IRAQ

Object Note  

Part of a lot along with 11 more pieces (ZI2018.500514.1 IRAQ, ZI2018.500514.1a IRAQ, ZI2018.500514.1b IRAQ, ZI2018.500514.1c IRAQ, ZI2018.500514.2 IRAQ, ZI2018.500514.3a IRAQ, ZI2018.500514.3b IRAQ, ZI2018.500514.3c IRAQ, ZI2018.500514.4 IRAQ, ZI2018.500514.5 IRAQ, ZI2018.500514.6 IRAQ) 


Object History 

This piece was gifted to Dr. Reem Tariq

Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli

Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.

; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.

El Mutwalli Dr. Reem Tariq

Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli

Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.

; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.

el Mutwallī: Founder (CEO) of the Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative, a public figure, speaker and author. An expert curator and consultant in Islamic art and architecture, interior design, historic costume, and UAE heritage. from Abu Sarah in the UAE in 2018, to be added to and enhance the Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative collection.  

Upon learning about The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative’s work, Abu Sarah, a family friend of the founder who often travels between Iraq and the UAE, offered to help source items for The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative. 


Object Features  

This is a black oblong-shaped silk chiffon panel with metal disc embellishment, which could be used both as a waist and headband.  

Possibly of Kurdish origin, this accessory is constructed of an oblong piece of black silk chiffon with gold-plated metal cameo discs and beads in three tiers. The discs have profiles of a human head in a Roman helmet with stars flanking it.  

The panel of fabric tapers at the two ends, with the widest area being the middle. This piece is possibly used by women as a headband or bandana to cover their heads.  

Interestingly, similar-looking accessories are often worn by dancers throughout the Middle East as part of their traditional costumes around their waists.  This scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. is believed to be a cheap commercial piece grade scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. used by dancers, possibly from Egypt, modified to be used as a headbandana to resemble traditional gold or silver adornment used in earlier times.


Links 

  • Zieme, Peter. Silk and Wad in Old Turkish Terminology. - Turkdilleri.Org, www.turkdilleri.org/turkdilleri/sayilar/tda7/PZieme.pdf 
  • Vogelsang-Eastwood, Gillian. Encyclopedia of Embroidery from the Arab World. Bloomsbury Academic, 2016. 
  • Stillman, Yedida Kalfon, and Norman A. Stillman. Arab Dress: From the Dawn of Islam to Modern Times. Brill, 2003. 
  • Scarce, Jennifer. Womens Costume of the near and the Middle East. RoutledgeCurzon, 2003. 
  • Rubens, Alfred. A History of Jewish Costume. 1981. 
  • “Clothing And Fashion, Middle East" Encyclopedia of Western Colonialism since 1450. . Encyclopedia.Com. 8 Jan. 2024 .” Encyclopedia.Com, Encyclopedia.com, 29 Jan. 2024, www.encyclopedia.com/history/encyclopedias-almanacs-transcripts-and-maps/clothing-and-fashion-middle-east. 
  • Baghdad, 10th Century the Dress of a Non-Muslim Woman, sayyidajahanara.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/baghdad-costume.pdf. Accessed 29 Jan. 2024. 
  • A Charuga

    Charuga: (Possibly Kurdish), a mantle-like embroidered women’s traditional garment from the Qaraqosh region in northern Iraq, traditionally fastened at the shoulder. Historically worn by field workers, it helped conceal dust and dirt, making them less visible during labour, it is a festive garment worn sparingly during festivals and other special occasions.  

    from Northern Iraq Has Arrived at the TRC!
    , www.trc-leiden.nl/trc/index.php/en/blog/1378-the-charuga

    Charuga: (Possibly Kurdish), a mantle-like embroidered women’s traditional garment from the Qaraqosh region in northern Iraq, traditionally fastened at the shoulder. Historically worn by field workers, it helped conceal dust and dirt, making them less visible during labour, it is a festive garment worn sparingly during festivals and other special occasions.  

    -from-northern-iraq-has-arrvied-at-the-trc. Accessed 29 Jan. 2024. 
  • “Clothing.” Kurdish Central, 18 Nov. 2021, kurdishcentral.org/clothing/. 
  • Foundation, Encyclopaedia Iranica. “Clothing of the Kurdish Jews.” Encyclopaedia Iranica, iranicaonline.org/articles/clothing-xvii. Accessed 29 Jan. 2024. 
  • “Learn about Kurdish Dress.” The Kurdish Project, 2 Aug. 2016, thekurdishproject.org/history-and-culture/kurdish-culture/kurdish-dress/. 

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