This series aims to explore the history of Morocco’s diverse cultural influences as reflected in the social landscape of the country, particularly through traditional urban fashion and material culture from the 19th Ccentury to the first quarter of the 20th Ccentury. In the previous installment, we examined various elements of menswear popular in Moroccan cities up until the early 20th century. From outer garments such as the jalābah to more intimate pieces like the tashāmīr, we also discussed the layered ensemble kiswah al mahsūr and its components, illustrating how these garments were arranged and draped.
In this installment, we will continue in the same vein, exploring additional menswear items and ensemble combinations, along with some of the key accessories that complemented these traditional garments.
The Qaftan:
A Moroccan qaftan; Title: Embellished Silk Robe, Morocco, c. 19th – 20th century;
Acc. No: ZI2022.500995 MOROCCO; Source: The Zay Initiative
The qaftan is arguably the most iconic of all Moroccan garments, so much so that it is often regarded as a national dress. Its significance in Moroccan society over the past two centuries is deeply rooted in the cultural landscape, making it a key symbol of traditional attire. The precise origins of the qaftan in Morocco remain a subject of debate. Originally a Persian garment (kaftan), it is unclear whether the qaftan was introduced during the early Muslim conquest and Abbasid influence in the 8th Ccentury or later, through Ottoman contact in the 16th Ccentury. Regardless of its historical trajectory, the qaftan has become an indispensable part of Moroccan couture, consistently present in representations of traditional Moroccan clothing to this day.
The qaftan is arguably the most iconic of all Moroccan garments, so much so that it is often regarded as a national dress. Its significance in Moroccan society over the past two centuries is deeply rooted in the cultural landscape, making it a key symbol of traditional attire. The precise origins of the qaftan in Morocco remain a subject of debate. Originally a Persian garment (kaftan), it is unclear whether the qaftan was introduced during the early Muslim conquest and Abbasid influence in the 8th Ccentury or later, through Ottoman contact in the 16th Ccentury. Regardless of its historical trajectory, the qaftan has become an indispensable part of Moroccan couture, consistently present in representations of traditional Moroccan clothing to this day.
The Moroccan Men’s Qaftan:
A Moroccan men’s qaftan; Title: Embellished Silk Robe, Morocco, c. 20th century; Acc No: ZI2018.500835.3 MOROCCO; Source: The Zay Initiative
The qaftan was traditionally worn by scholars and high-ranking government officials in Morocco. This long, ankle-length, front-open robe was crafted from rich, luxurious fabrics and was distinguished by its wide sleeves and collarless design. The garment was often fastened with a row of small, ball-shaped buttons, typically made from passementerie cords in silk or metal thread. In some cases, the buttons extended all the way down to the ankle, while in others, the functional fastenings only reached the waist, with the remaining buttons serving a decorative purpose. The edges of the qaftan were commonly trimmed with the same passementerie cord as the buttons, adding to its intricate detailing.
Over the past two centuries, the qaftan has undergone significant stylistic changes. Traditionally, Moroccan qaftèn (plural) featured wide, bell-shaped sleeves, but withover time, the sleeves evolved into a more tapered, slimmer fit, reflecting European influences. These adaptations highlight the garment’s dynamic evolution while retaining its cultural significance.
Interestingly, the qaftan is never worn in isolation; it is always accompanied by an additional overgarment, forming part of a complete ensemble. This pairing reflects the traditional layering practices in Moroccan dress, enhancing both the aesthetic appeal and the formality of the attire.
The Farjīyah:
A Moroccan men’s farajīyah; Title: Embellished Woollen Cloak, Morocco, c. 19th – 20th century;
Acc No: ZI2018.500835.1 MOROCCO; Source: The Zay Initiative
The faraīyah was a garment traditionally paired with the qaftan, often crafted from light, transparent fabric. Its silhouette typically mirrored that of the qaftan, which was worn beneath it, and the two garments were commonly secured together at the waist with a decorative waistband. Once a prominent choice of overgarment, the faraīyah was favoured in high society and was worn at the imperial court, reflecting its role in formal attire within elite circles.
The combination of the qaftan and the faraīyah, was a traditional costume associated with the ‘moghazni’ (imperial servants) and , possibly including government officials, featured a distinctive ensemble. This attire was typically completed with a high-crowned red felt cap adorned with a tassel, a satchel worn diagonally across the shoulder, and a dagger fastened at the waist, symboliszing both functionality and status.
The faraīyah, also known as the fawqīyah and sometimes referred to as the mansūrīyah, derives its name from the belief that Ahmed Al-Mansur Al-Dhahabi, the Saʿdī ruler, was the first to introduce this garment at court. Under his reign, it became an integral part of the official court dress code, symboliszing its association with royal and formal attire.
Draping and Layering: Al-Takshītah / Takshīdah:
While the qaftan was traditionally associated with the court and worn by the wealthy elite, those of more modest means adopted the takshītah, an ensemble consisting of a combination of the tashāmīr and the fawqīyah. Over time, the middle class increasingly favoured the takshītah, eventually replacing the qaftan and faraīyah combination as the dominant attire.
Conclusion
In conclusion, traditional urban Moroccan menswear, particularly the men’s qaftan and its associated overgarments, represents a rich and intricate aspect of the country’s cultural heritage. These garments, such as the faraīyah and the ensembles such as the takshītah, formed essential components of courtly attire, symboliszing social status and refined taste. The layering and craftsmanship involved in these ensembles underscore the importance of appearance in Moroccan society, especially among the higher echelons. In the following installments, we will explore additional elements of traditional menswear, focusing on accessories such as waistbands, as well as headwear like the fez, which further complement and complete these iconic outfits.
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