Object History
This object was gifted to Dr. Reem Tariq El Mutwalli by Mr Jabir Al Hajiri from Qatar in 2017. Mr Al Hajiri, a passionate supporter of culture and heritage conservation, got in touch with Dr Reem through social media and offered to contribute a few articles to The Zay Initiative collection. This particular piece was possibly purchased by Mr Al Hajiri either from a textile peddler – lilam – or from a flea market, Souq Al Haraj, in Doha, Qatar.
Object Features
This is a black silk front open robe (abayah)/(bisht) with no embellishments except the braided metal thread (zari) trimming (gitan) along the seam and hemlines. The metal in the trimmings in this piece is possibly silver. It has no fastenings and has an embroidered maker’s tag attached to the underside of the back neck.
According to the tag, which is in Arabic, it was made in the Malbus. Al Amirat workshop of Lebanon.
Traditionally abayas like these are typically crafted from two equally long pieces of fabric that are sewn together horizontally, leaving a vertical front opening along the midriff. The outer edges of each length are folded towards the centre and sewn at the top to form the shoulder line. Openings are then made on either side for the hands, creating the sleeves.
More Details
A “lilam” is a peddler, known in the Arab Gulf region hailing mostly from South Asia or Afghanistan. They were known for calling out “laylam” as they traversed the alleys and neighbourhoods for peddling their wares. The term originates from the Urdu term “neelam,” meaning “to bid.” These peddlers visited neighbourhoods weekly, carrying pre-cut 4-meter coupons of clothes and fabrics in large bundles on their backs. Women of the households across the Gulf eagerly anticipated their arrival, turning it into a social event where they gathered to inspect goods, compete for choices, and negotiate prices, all while enjoying each other’s company over coffee and snacks.
As urbanization progressed, vendors transitioned to cars and mobile phone summoning, offering a wider range of cloth options through sample swatches for orders. Today, social media platforms are used to view selections and place orders, with several messaging services for communication. However, in rural areas, the traditional door-to-door vendor is still occasionally spotted, causing excitement and announcements.
Links
- https://www.moc.gov.qa/en/national-day-clothes-of-the-state-of-qatar-adorn-darb-al-saai/
- https://nationalclothing.org/middle-east/69-qatar/158-traditional-qatari-men-s-national-dress.html
- https://www.askexplorer.com/qatar/residents/about/culture-lifestyle/national-dress
- https://www.hilalplaza.com/blogs/islamic-cultures/120524419-the-culture-of-qatar
- http://qatarcultureclub.blogspot.com/2011/11/traditional-costume.html
- https://www.expatwoman.com/qatar/guide/faqs/traditional-qatari-attire
- https://www.planetjawal.com/qatar-traditional-clothing/
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