Object History
This artwork by the Sudanese Egyptian artist Amado Al Fadni was part of a collaborative work during his 2022 solo exhibition entitled ‘Alternative Museum of The Sudan’ at the Sulger Buel Gallery, London. It was later gifted to Dr. Reem Tariq El Mutwalli and The Zay Initiative by the artist.
Object Features
This is a rectangular jade green synthetic fabric designed in the style of a Sudanese traditional men’s turban (‘imamah) / (‘immah). It has digital printed embellishments all over with portraits of one of the most famous Sudanese political figures from the 19th century, Muhammed Ahmed Al Mahdi within frames; maps of Mahdist Sudan; Arabic verses in calligraphy; and other visually recognizable symbolisms and figures unique to Sudan and its Mahdist period such as figures of soldiers – askari – in their traditional attire and weapons. Under the map of Sudan, there is a pink banner with the word “REVOLUTION” printed. It is a panel which has been repeated several times throughout the fabric.
The (weft) ends have a border of yellow trident battle standard repeats. These shapes are immediately recognizable as the trident spearheads symbolic of the Mahdist period and the Mahdist wars.
The ‘imamah is a quintessential traditional Sudanese men’s accessory that almost defines their national identity. Generally made of cotton it is often worn over a skull cap (tagiyah). This artwork was paired with the traditional Mahdi style Sudanese men’s tunic (jubbah) – ZI2019.500740 EUROPE – that was originally designed for and worn by Sir Lawrence Olivier in the 1966 film ‘Khartoum’. The installation was the artist’s conceptual narrative of Sudan’s rich Mahdist history.
The ‘imamah artwork is primarily rooted in the colonial photos and uniforms of the soldiers – askari – as well as the intricate patterns found in African textiles that were influenced by the then Dutch wax prints these fabrics, were transformed by African women into local attire, serving as a means of communication and self-expression through colours, shapes, and shared symbolism.
Links
- Amado Alfadni: The Mahdi Jubba Turban
- https://thezay.org/event/sulger-buel-gallery-exhibition-extension-alternative-museum-of-the-sudan/
- “Alternative Museum of the Sudan.” Sulger, website-sulgerbuelgallery.artlogic.net/exhibitions/44-alternative-museum-of-the-sudan-a-solo-exhibition-of-amado-alfadni-curated-by/works/
- Karim. “Sudanese Traditional Clothing.” Home –, www.planetjawal.com/sudanese-traditional-clothing/
- “National Dress of Sudan. Men Prefer Loose-Fitting Robes and Women Use Wrap-around Cloths.” Nationalclothing.Org, nationalclothing.org/africa/35-sudan/49-national-dress-of-sudan-men-prefer-loose-fitting-robes-and-women-use-wrap-around-cloths.html
- “Siege of Khartoum.” Encyclopædia Britannica, Encyclopædia Britannica, inc., www.britannica.com/event/Siege-of-Khartoum
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