Embellished tunic dress in metallic straw – UAE

Object History 
This tunic dress (kandurah Kandūrah: (Arabic: qandūrah, pl. kanādīr, synonyms: ghandurah Ghandūrah: (Arabic, pl. qanādīr, synonyms: qandurah, darā’ah, dishdāshah, jalābah, jallābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe), a loose, short or long-sleeved, shirt like (qamis) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences., qandurah Qandūrah: (Arabic, pl. qanādīr, synonyms: ghandurah Ghandūrah: (Arabic, pl. qanādīr, synonyms: qandurah, darā’ah, dishdāshah, jalābah, jallābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe), a loose, short or long-sleeved, shirt like (qamis) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences., darā’ah, dishdāshah, jalābah, jallābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. ), a loose, short or long-sleeved, shirt like (qamis) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences. , dra’ah, dishdāshah, jallābīyah, jalābah, jillābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. )  loose, short or long sleeved, shirt like (qamis) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences.) is part of an ensemble together with overgarment (thawb Thawb: (Arabic: thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thobe Thobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women in the Arabian Gulf region.  ) (ZI2021.500971.3a UAE), veil (shaylah Shaylah: (Colloquial Gulf Arabic), a length of fabric used as shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool. , head cover or veil. Also known as (wigāyah) or (milfa Milfa’: (Arabic: to cover), shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool.  or veil worn by women in the Arab Gulf regions and some areas of the Levant to cover the head.’), generally made from sheer fabrics such as tulle (tūr), cotton gauze (wasmah Wasmah: (Arabic: woad), is derived from the woad herb (wasmah) used to dye the cotton gauze black. It is mainly used for headcovers or veils and overgarments in most of the Arab gulf region.) (nidwah) or (Nīl), or silk chiffon (sarī).) (ZI2021.500971.3b UAE), and a group of imitation jewellery in traditional UAE style: necklace (mriyah_um_shnaf Mrīyah_um_shnāf: (known, synonym:sitmī, mrīyah um ‘Um: (Arabic: mother), a sign of respect or formality, women are not addressed by their own names, rather as mother of, then adding the name of the eldest son as in Um Mohammed. Also can mean: with, for example (‘um mishakhiṣ) meaning with gold embellishment. hlal), long gold bead strand necklace in different shapes and sizes strung on red cotton thread and end with a dangling medallion (shnaf Shnāf: (unknown, synonym: tfruqah Tfrūqah: (unknown, synonyms: shnaf, tabā’ah, hyar Hyār: (unkown, synonym:naql Naql: (unknown, synonyms: hyar, majlah Majlah: (unknown, synonyms: hyar, naql), decorative golden chain that comes different motifs, similar to a headband worn across connecting ear to ear and ending with small rings where earrings are dangled. At times it has a medallion (shnaf/taba’ah/tfruqah) attached on the forehead or additional dangling chain layers covering the crown of the head. Common to the UAE, Oman, Qatar, and other Arab gulf states.), decorative golden chain that comes different motifs, similar to a headband worn across connecting ear to ear and ending with small rings where earrings are dangled. At times it has a medallion (shnaf/taba’ah/tfruqah) attached on the forehead or additional dangling chain layers covering the crown of the head. Common to the UAE, Oman, Qatar and other Arab gulf states., majlah Majlah: (unknown, synonyms: hyar, naql), decorative golden chain that comes different motifs, similar to a headband worn across connecting ear to ear and ending with small rings where earrings are dangled. At times it has a medallion (shnaf/taba’ah/tfruqah) attached on the forehead or additional dangling chain layers covering the crown of the head. Common to the UAE, Oman, Qatar, and other Arab gulf states.), decorative golden chain that comes in different motifs, similar to a headband worn across connecting ear to ear and ending with small rings for earrings to dangle. At times it has a medallion (shnaf/taba’ah/tfruqah) attached on the forehead or additional dangling chain layers covering the crown of the head. Common to the UAE, Oman, Qatar, and other Arab gulf states., hlali), generally triangular or crescent shape medallion worn dangling on the forehead or as part of a longer necklace (mriyah_um_shnaf), common to the UAE, Oman, Qatar, and other Arab gulf states., tabā’ah, hyar Hyār: (unkown, synonym:naql Naql: (unknown, synonyms: hyar, majlah Majlah: (unknown, synonyms: hyar, naql), decorative golden chain that comes different motifs, similar to a headband worn across connecting ear to ear and ending with small rings where earrings are dangled. At times it has a medallion (shnaf/taba’ah/tfruqah) attached on the forehead or additional dangling chain layers covering the crown of the head. Common to the UAE, Oman, Qatar, and other Arab gulf states.), decorative golden chain that comes different motifs, similar to a headband worn across connecting ear to ear and ending with small rings where earrings are dangled. At times it has a medallion (shnaf/taba’ah/tfruqah) attached on the forehead or additional dangling chain layers covering the crown of the head. Common to the UAE, Oman, Qatar and other Arab gulf states., majlah Majlah: (unknown, synonyms: hyar, naql), decorative golden chain that comes different motifs, similar to a headband worn across connecting ear to ear and ending with small rings where earrings are dangled. At times it has a medallion (shnaf/taba’ah/tfruqah) attached on the forehead or additional dangling chain layers covering the crown of the head. Common to the UAE, Oman, Qatar, and other Arab gulf states.), decorative golden chain that comes in different motifs, similar to a headband worn across connecting ear to ear and ending with small rings for earrings to dangle. At times it has a medallion (shnaf/taba’ah/tfruqah) attached on the forehead or additional dangling chain layers covering the crown of the head. Common to the UAE, Oman, Qatar, and other Arab gulf states., hlali) generally triangular or crescent shape medallion worn dangling on the forehead or as part of a longer necklace (mriyah_um_shnaf), common to the UAE, Oman, Qatar, and other Arab gulf states. / tfruqah Tfrūqah: (unknown, synonyms: shnaf, tabā’ah, hyar Hyār: (unkown, synonym:naql Naql: (unknown, synonyms: hyar, majlah Majlah: (unknown, synonyms: hyar, naql), decorative golden chain that comes different motifs, similar to a headband worn across connecting ear to ear and ending with small rings where earrings are dangled. At times it has a medallion (shnaf/taba’ah/tfruqah) attached on the forehead or additional dangling chain layers covering the crown of the head. Common to the UAE, Oman, Qatar, and other Arab gulf states.), decorative golden chain that comes different motifs, similar to a headband worn across connecting ear to ear and ending with small rings where earrings are dangled. At times it has a medallion (shnaf/taba’ah/tfruqah) attached on the forehead or additional dangling chain layers covering the crown of the head. Common to the UAE, Oman, Qatar and other Arab gulf states., majlah Majlah: (unknown, synonyms: hyar, naql), decorative golden chain that comes different motifs, similar to a headband worn across connecting ear to ear and ending with small rings where earrings are dangled. At times it has a medallion (shnaf/taba’ah/tfruqah) attached on the forehead or additional dangling chain layers covering the crown of the head. Common to the UAE, Oman, Qatar, and other Arab gulf states.), decorative golden chain that comes in different motifs, similar to a headband worn across connecting ear to ear and ending with small rings for earrings to dangle. At times it has a medallion (shnaf/taba’ah/tfruqah) attached on the forehead or additional dangling chain layers covering the crown of the head. Common to the UAE, Oman, Qatar, and other Arab gulf states., hlali), generally triangular or crescent shape medallion worn dangling on the forehead or as part of a longer necklace (mriyah_um_shnaf), common to the UAE, Oman, Qatar, and other Arab gulf states.), common to the UAE, Oman, Qatar, and other Arab gulf states.) (ZI2021.500971.3c UAE), hair accessory (hyar Hyār: (unkown, synonym:naql Naql: (unknown, synonyms: hyar, majlah Majlah: (unknown, synonyms: hyar, naql), decorative golden chain that comes different motifs, similar to a headband worn across connecting ear to ear and ending with small rings where earrings are dangled. At times it has a medallion (shnaf/taba’ah/tfruqah) attached on the forehead or additional dangling chain layers covering the crown of the head. Common to the UAE, Oman, Qatar, and other Arab gulf states.), decorative golden chain that comes different motifs, similar to a headband worn across connecting ear to ear and ending with small rings where earrings are dangled. At times it has a medallion (shnaf/taba’ah/tfruqah) attached on the forehead or additional dangling chain layers covering the crown of the head. Common to the UAE, Oman, Qatar and other Arab gulf states., majlah Majlah: (unknown, synonyms: hyar, naql), decorative golden chain that comes different motifs, similar to a headband worn across connecting ear to ear and ending with small rings where earrings are dangled. At times it has a medallion (shnaf/taba’ah/tfruqah) attached on the forehead or additional dangling chain layers covering the crown of the head. Common to the UAE, Oman, Qatar, and other Arab gulf states.), decorative golden chain that comes in different motifs, similar to a headband worn across connecting ear to ear and ending with small rings for earrings to dangle. At times it has a medallion (shnaf/taba’ah/tfruqah) attached on the forehead or additional dangling chain layers covering the crown of the head. Common to the UAE, Oman, Qatar, and other Arab gulf states.) (ZI2021.500971.3d UAE), & earrings (kwashi Kwāshī (Persian: cage, synonym: tarachi Tarāchī: (Arabised from Turkey), meaning earrings, common to the UAE, Oman, Qatar and other Arab gulf states.), meaning earrings, common to the UAE, Oman, Qatar, and other Arab gulf states.) (ZI2021.500971.3e UAE).
 
Object History
This garment is part of a five-piece ensemble that was awarded first prize at the Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Art of UAE Dress Design Competition held by The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative in conjunction with Hotel Indigo Indigo: (Latin: Indigo – India, synonym: nil Nīl: (Latin: indigo), Arabised term for Indigo, a natural dye belonging to the ‘Indigofera Tinctoria’ species of plants that have been cultivated in East Asia, Egypt, India, and Peru since antiquity. According to Pliny the Elder, it was named after India as it was the source of the dye.), a natural dye belonging to the ‘Indigofera Tinctoria’ species of plants that has been cultivated in East Asia, Egypt, India, and Peru since antiquity. According to Pliny the Elder, it was named after India as it was the source of the dye.   Dubai Downtown in 2021 to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the UAE.
The outfit titled thawb Thawb: (Arabic: thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thobe Thobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women in the Arabian Gulf region.   Ftayim was donated by the designer Shaikha AL Gaithi to The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative and will be included in the Fanan: The Art of Dress Exhibition, curated by The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative at Zeman Awwal, Mall of the Emirates, Dubai, from 28 January to 28 March 2022.
The exhibition will showcase the intersecting relationship between Art and Fashion while continuing to document the evolution of UAE traditional dress through the works of five UAE designers and five UAE artists. Together we will explore what fashion and heritage mean to contemporary Emirati women.
Shaikha AL Gaithi, a Sharjah-based, mother to two boys, holds a bachelor's degree in Islamic history and is a self-taught UAE designer. She established her workshop in 2008 and was awarded the prestigious role of designing the traditional outfits for the young hostesses during the opening ceremony at Dubai Expo 2020 in October 2021, where she created three particular styles. She donated an example of each style to The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative’s collection.
 
Object Features 
Before the 1980s, it was common to employ contrasting colours and techniques within the components of UAE traditional dress. Women used to wear an overgarment (thawb Thawb: (Arabic: thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thobe Thobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women in the Arabian Gulf region.  ) that was distinct and in contrast to the tunic dress (kandurah Kandūrah: (Arabic: qandūrah, pl. kanādīr, synonyms: ghandurah Ghandūrah: (Arabic, pl. qanādīr, synonyms: qandurah, darā’ah, dishdāshah, jalābah, jallābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe), a loose, short or long-sleeved, shirt like (qamis) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences., qandurah Qandūrah: (Arabic, pl. qanādīr, synonyms: ghandurah Ghandūrah: (Arabic, pl. qanādīr, synonyms: qandurah, darā’ah, dishdāshah, jalābah, jallābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe), a loose, short or long-sleeved, shirt like (qamis) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences., darā’ah, dishdāshah, jalābah, jallābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. ), a loose, short or long-sleeved, shirt like (qamis) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences. , dra’ah, dishdāshah, jallābīyah, jalābah, jillābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. )  loose, short or long sleeved, shirt like (qamis) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences.) underneath. Soon this evolved into matching sets known as (thawb_wa_kandurah Thawb_wa_kandūrah: (colloquial, UAE), an elaborate form of the traditional overgarment (thawb Thawb: (Arabic: thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thobe Thobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women in the Arabian Gulf region.  ) and tunic (kandūrah) ensemble, that evolved post-1980s where the two garments became matched as a set.), where the two garments were made of the same or coordinating fabrics and colours. By the late 1990s, this evolved further, as the two separate articles were merged into one and became attached at the neckline, using the inner tunic as lining and creating a combination overgarment tunic (thawb_kandurah Thawb_kandūrah: (colloquial, UAE), post-1990s the (Thawb_wa_kandūrah) ensemble of the eighties evolved where the overgarment (thawb) and tunic (kandūrah) became united at the neckline creating one outfit and inner tunic receding to act as lining.).
This is an example of the thawb_wa_kandurah Thawb_wa_kandūrah: (colloquial, UAE), an elaborate form of the traditional overgarment (thawb Thawb: (Arabic: thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thobe Thobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women in the Arabian Gulf region.  ) and tunic (kandūrah) ensemble, that evolved post-1980s where the two garments became matched as a set. ensemble, designed to represent the 50th UAE national day anniversary and the Expo 2020 dubai. It draws from the past, connecting the then and the now, linking the present to the future.
Pearl beads are used to reference the pearl trade associated with the area, while metallic gold and coloured cotton (talli_fatlah) sustain traditional craftwork. The costume gilded metal coins reference traditional gold coin embellishments (hruf Ḥrūf: (Arabic: ḥarf: alphabetical character), thin coin like platelets in gold, with a maximum diameter of 15 mm, stamped in shapes resembling alphabetical characters (ḥurūf) and applied by hand to adorn overgarments (athwāb), tunic dresses (kanādīr), and face masks (barāg’). Common in the Arab Gulf region as a form of ornament. It is melted down and sold in times of need. ) or (mshakhis Mshākhīṣ: (Arabic: shākhiṣ: gaze), gold adornments decorate face masks (burgu‘) or overgarments (athwab Athwāb: (Arabic, sing. thawb), the standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. It is sometimes spelled (thobe), (thaub), or (tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. ).). Their sparkle attracts attention and causes one to gaze. Common in the Arab Gulf region as a form of ornament. It is melted down and sold in times of need.).
The designer incorporated ribbed donut-shaped golden-coloured metal beads she found by chance while rummaging the marketplace in India a few years ago. They lend themselves perfectly to two important elements;
They resemble the logo of Expo 2020, that was inspired by a 4000-year-old gold ring, unearthed at the Saruq Al Hadid site in Al Marmoom back in 2002 when Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Vice-President and Prime Minister of the UAE and Ruler of Dubai discovered the archaeological site while he was flying over the area and noticed the irregular ripples on the sand dunes. He unveiled this logo based on the ancient gold ring at a grand ceremony at the Armani Hotel, at Burj Khalifa in March 2016 and the actual ring is on display at the Saruq Al-Hadid Museum.
The round shape depicts the Indo-Arab number 5 character symbolising the 50th anniversary of the UAE celebrated in 2021.
The overall shape of this contemporary garment resembles the traditional dress known locally as (gawan Gawan: (English: gown, or Arabic: qawan, synonyms: bīchī, fustān, nafnūf, kurtah Kurtah: (Urdu and Persian: kurta, synonyms: bīchī, gawan, fustān, nafnūf, kirtah Kirtah: (Punjabi: kurta, synonyms: bīchī, gawan, fustān, nafnūf), colloquially in KSA, Kuwait and Bahrain refers to sleeved, waist-cinched dress that comes in different styles.), a loose sleeveless shirt of varying lengths, typically falling either just above or somewhere below the knees, with its side-seams left open at the bottom, worn in South Asia, usually with a salwar Salwar: (Farsi: shalvār; Synonym: Ṣarwāl, shalwar, sharwāl, salbāl, sirwāl, khalag), pair of trousers with tapering ankles and fastened with a draw string. Believed to have originated in Central Asia it has spread since in the Indian subcontinent between c. 1st – 3rd century BCE and the Middle East from c. 12th century.  , churidars, or pyjama. In Hijazi dialect, the term refers to a sleeved, waist-cinched dress that comes in different styles, popularly worn since the 1950s., kirtah Kirtah: (Punjabi: kurta, synonyms: bīchī, gawan, fustān, nafnūf), colloquially in KSA, Kuwait and Bahrain refers to sleeved, waist-cinched dress that comes in different styles.), colloquial term used in UAE for a sleeved, waist-cinched full-length dress of varying lengths and styles.) or (nafnuf Nafnūf: (Arabic: nafnaf: airy, pl. nafānīf, synonyms: bīchī, gawan, fustān, kurtah Kurtah: (Urdu and Persian: kurta, synonyms: bīchī, gawan, fustān, nafnūf, kirtah Kirtah: (Punjabi: kurta, synonyms: bīchī, gawan, fustān, nafnūf), colloquially in KSA, Kuwait and Bahrain refers to sleeved, waist-cinched dress that comes in different styles.), a loose sleeveless shirt of varying lengths, typically falling either just above or somewhere below the knees, with its side-seams left open at the bottom, worn in South Asia, usually with a salwar Salwar: (Farsi: shalvār; Synonym: Ṣarwāl, shalwar, sharwāl, salbāl, sirwāl, khalag), pair of trousers with tapering ankles and fastened with a draw string. Believed to have originated in Central Asia it has spread since in the Indian subcontinent between c. 1st – 3rd century BCE and the Middle East from c. 12th century.  , churidars, or pyjama. In Hijazi dialect, the term refers to a sleeved, waist-cinched dress that comes in different styles, popularly worn since the 1950s., kirtah Kirtah: (Punjabi: kurta, synonyms: bīchī, gawan, fustān, nafnūf), colloquially in KSA, Kuwait and Bahrain refers to sleeved, waist-cinched dress that comes in different styles.), referring to sleeved, waist-cinched dress of varying lengths and styles. ) or (biji Bījī: (Unknown, synonyms: fustān, gawan, nafnūf, kurtah), also pronounced bīchī, in the UAE the term colloquially refers to full-length waist cinched dress. / bichi Bīchī: (Unknown, synonyms: fustān, gawan, nafnūf, kurtah, kirtah Kirtah: (Punjabi: kurta, synonyms: bīchī, gawan, fustān, nafnūf), colloquially in KSA, Kuwait and Bahrain refers to sleeved, waist-cinched dress that comes in different styles.), also pronounced bījī, in the UAE the term colloquially refers to a sleeved, full-length waist–cinched dress of varying lengths and styles.) rather than the traditional tunic (kandurah Kandūrah: (Arabic: qandūrah, pl. kanādīr, synonyms: ghandurah Ghandūrah: (Arabic, pl. qanādīr, synonyms: qandurah, darā’ah, dishdāshah, jalābah, jallābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe), a loose, short or long-sleeved, shirt like (qamis) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences., qandurah Qandūrah: (Arabic, pl. qanādīr, synonyms: ghandurah Ghandūrah: (Arabic, pl. qanādīr, synonyms: qandurah, darā’ah, dishdāshah, jalābah, jallābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe), a loose, short or long-sleeved, shirt like (qamis) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences., darā’ah, dishdāshah, jalābah, jallābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. ), a loose, short or long-sleeved, shirt like (qamis) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences. , dra’ah, dishdāshah, jallābīyah, jalābah, jillābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. )  loose, short or long sleeved, shirt like (qamis) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences.), in that it is tapered around the waist to be body fitting while flaring out towards the bottom forming a wider, softly draped skirt. The hem is longer at the back than at the front forming a slight tail.
The neckline opening (halj Ḥalj: (Arabic: ḥalq: mouth, pl: ḥlūj,). Colloquially, the term refers to the neckline opening. The letter (qāf) is turned (jīm) in many Arab dialects.) and sleeve cuffs (hyul Ḥyūl: (Arabic: hjūl: to walk or jump), colloquially in the Gulf region, the term refers to the hem of garment or its sleeves. In pronunciation, the (j) turns to (y). ) are adorned with the same type of metallic gold straw (khus Khūṣ: (Arabic: straw, sing. khūṣah), flat silver or metallic flat straw used in embroidery or tallī making.) intertwined with yellow or orange cotton in a basic chain motif known as (talli_fatlah) found on the accompanying thawb Thawb: (Arabic: thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thobe Thobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women in the Arabian Gulf region.  .
The round neckline (halj Ḥalj: (Arabic: ḥalq: mouth, pl: ḥlūj,). Colloquially, the term refers to the neckline opening. The letter (qāf) is turned (jīm) in many Arab dialects.) is simply embellished with six lines of talli_fatlah accentuated by two rows of ribbed donut-shaped golden-coloured metal beads. A square bib shaped yoke Yoke: (Synonym: Bodice_Yoke), a structured pattern fitted at the shoulders defining the structure of women’s garments. Introduced in c. 1880s it defines the transition between the upper and lower parts of the garments and can now be found stitched-in where the blouse is separated from the skirt by a horizontal seam.  line Is then delineated with one line of metallic gold and yellow cotton (talli_fatlah) and one line of donut-shaped beads.
The sleeve cuffs (hyul Ḥyūl: (Arabic: hjūl: to walk or jump), colloquially in the Gulf region, the term refers to the hem of garment or its sleeves. In pronunciation, the (j) turns to (y). ) are more elaborately decorated with two bands embellishment, each consisting of two rows of (talli_fatlah) and one row of donut-shaped metal beads, repeated twice on each band. Between the two bands are a space of equal width decorated with single donut-shaped beads, pearls, and costume gilded metal coins. The cuff embellishments are completed with an arch-shaped collection of beaded circles using the same donut-shaped metal beads as elsewhere and representing the number 5 and circular branding of the Dubai Expo 2020.