Requests from referer
Object History
On a visit to Bahrain in 2018, Dr. Reem Tariq El Mutwalli, sought to find crafters talented in silver embroidery (naqdah). She was advised to meet with Zakiyah Ali, from then on, they became good friends and Zakiyah began to source old articles of dress to help build the Bahraini section of The Zay collection. Dr. El Mutwalli has also commissioned Zakiyah to create a sample of her work, one specifically to be added in Zakiyah’s name in due course.
This overgarment was handmade by the late Maryam Ali Nasser Al-Hayki, famous for her skills in sewing and craftsmanship. Zakiyah Ali, her daughter, inherited these skills from her mother and excelled especially in silver straw technique (naqdah) . Thus, she is known as Zakiyah Naqdah.
Object Features
This sheer, emerald green, cotton voile, machine stitched, Bahraini overgarment (thawb kurar), is sewn in the traditional T-shape with wide sleeve panels and gussets (bat), of the same fabric, connecting each of the upper sleeve panels at the lower end.
It is decorated, simply, with a 2 cm wide band of traditional kurar work in gilded thread (zari), accentuating the neckline creating a central axis extending to the hemline in front, and framing the outer sleeve openings.
Kurar work requires a group of skilled handcrafters, two or three women, called (dawakhil), led by a group leader called the (qattabah). The women sit opposite the leader, and each takes a turn organising the thread on her fingers and transferring it from one hand to another, for the thread to interlace. The result is a flat woven ribbon, that is then hand stitched directly onto the fabric of the overgarment (thawb), accentuating the sleeves, the neckline, and the centre axis on the front of the gown.
Such a garment is customarily worn over underpants (sirwal) and a tunic dress (dara’ah), and is reserved for special events and social gatherings.
Links: https://raseef22.net/article/23148-women-embroidery-the-bahraini-way
Donate