Object Note
Part of an ensemble which includes a blouse and a pair of trousers (ZI2020.500741 ASIA, ZI2020.500741b ASIA) and was purchased along with seven other pieces not related to the ensemble (ZI2020.500741c ASIA, ZI2020.500741d ASIA, ZI2020.500741e ASIA, ZI2020.500741f ASIA, ZI2020.500741g ASIA, ZI2020.500741h ASIA, ZI2020.500741i ASIA).
Object History
This multicoloured embellished jacket was purchased by Dr. Reem Tariq El Mutwalli from Kerry Taylor Auctions, London in 2020 to be added to The Zay Initiative Collection.
Object Features
This is a (crimson) red linen jacket with overall heavy embellishment. It is possibly a long robe that was often worn by older women of the lower Sindh region above their hip-length blouse (Sindhi_cholo) or (gaji) and trousers (suthan).
It has loose full sleeves and a front opening with three large buttons made of plastic for fastening. It is densely decorated in floral and geometric designs executed with silk floss threads of multiple colours – yellow, purple, ivory, green and burgundy – in (satin_stitch) style embroidery.
The hem around the fall has a wide border with repeats of multiple small triangles above which there are three tiers of zigzag patterns in varied thicknesses. This is followed by repeats of herringbone and arrow-like motifs. A similar border is reflected on the cuffs too.
The hem of the placket and the neckline too has a thick border in three tiers running vertically parallel to one another. The first and the third tier are simple zigzag patterns while the middle tier is a thick band of yellow patches with large diamond-shaped motifs repeated in different colours – ivory, purple and green – executed using (blanket_stitch) style embroidery. It has long side slits and pockets on either side. Although completely hand embroidered the piece is machine stitched.
The ensemble was acquired due to the distinguished neckline of the gaji which is strikingly similar to the necklines of traditional women’s (kandurah) from the UAE.
Links
- Collection, Asian Costumes and Textiles from the Bosphorus to Fujiyama: The Zaira and Marcel Mis. Asian Costumes and Textiles from the Bosphorus to Fujiyama: The Zaira and Marcel Mis Collection. Calfornia: Skira, 2009.
- https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O476922/shirt-unknown/
- https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O455666/jacket-unknown/
- https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O476579/bodice/
- https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O440804/jacket-unknown/
- https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O475902/trousers-unknown/
- https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O453662/blouse-unknown/
- https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O475760/trousers-unknown/
- https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O69766/trousers-unknown/
- https://www.thevoiceoffashion.com/fabric-of-india
- https://www.dawn.com/news
- https://brill.com/view/journals
- https://books.google.ae/books
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