Object NotePart of an ensemble which includes a blouse and a pair of trousers (
ZI2020.500741 ASIA,
ZI2020.500741b ASIA) and was purchased along with seven other pieces not related to the ensemble (
ZI2020.500741c ASIA,
ZI2020.500741d ASIA,
ZI2020.500741e ASIA,
ZI2020.500741f ASIA,
ZI2020.500741g ASIA,
ZI2020.500741h ASIA,
ZI2020.500741i ASIA).
Object HistoryThis multicoloured embellished jacket was purchased by
Dr. Reem Tariq El Mutwalli
Dr. Reem Tariq el Mutwallī: Founder (CEO) of the Zay
Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative, a public figure, speaker and author. An expert curator and consultant in Islamic art and architecture, interior design, historic costume, and UAE heritage. from Kerry Taylor Auctions, London in 2020 to be added to The
Zay
Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative Collection.
Object Features This is a (
crimson
Crimson: (Persian/Arabic and Turkish: qirmiz or kirmiz – red), is a vivid red color originally made from the dried bodies of a scale insect of the Kermes genus native to the Mediterranean region and was used as a dye for clothing and textiles.) red linen jacket with overall heavy embellishment. It is possibly a long robe that was often worn by older women of the lower Sindh region above their hip-length blouse (
Sindhi_cholo
Sindhi_cholo: (Hindi: choli / kanchli from Sanskrit: kanchuki – a chest band which was one of the three pieces of a full women’s ensemble from ancient India), a loose-fitting tunic traditionally with long sleeves worn by the Sindhi women of South Asia. ) or (
gaji
Gaji: (Sindhi), a hip length loose shirt completely covered in embroidered embellishment worn by the women of the Sindh region of South Asia ) and trousers (
suthan
Suthan: (Sindhi), a pair of wide trousers traditionally worn only by the men from the Sindh region of South Asia until the early 19th century. It was gradually adopted by the women too and was characterised by its gathers or bunches near the knees as opposed to just the ankles. ).
It has loose full sleeves and a front opening with three large buttons made of plastic for fastening. It is densely decorated in floral and geometric designs executed with silk
floss
Floss: (Old French: flosche – nap of velvet), is a type of silk fibre obtained from the cocoons of wild silkworms. It is characterized by its long, fluffy fibers that are not tightly woven, making it ideal for use in various textile applications such as embroidery, lace-making, and sewing. threads of multiple colours – yellow, purple, ivory, green and burgundy – in (
satin_stitch
Satin_stitch: (Synonym: Damask Stitch), is a type of flat embroidery stitch that creates a satin like smooth and shiny surface by closely spaced stitches, covering an entire area or shape.) style embroidery.
The hem around the fall has a wide border with repeats of multiple small triangles above which there are three tiers of zigzag patterns in varied thicknesses. This is followed by repeats of herringbone and arrow-like motifs. A similar border is reflected on the cuffs too.
The hem of the placket and the neckline too has a thick border in three tiers running vertically parallel to one another. The first and the third tier are simple zigzag patterns while the middle tier is a thick band of yellow patches with large diamond-shaped motifs repeated in different colours – ivory, purple and green – executed using (
blanket_stitch
Blanket_stitch: A basic sewing stitch used to secure the edges of fabric or create decorative borders by looping the thread over the edges of blankets, quilts, and other fabrics and pulling it through, forming a series of evenly spaced stitches that resemble a chain. ) style embroidery. It has long side slits and pockets on either side. Although completely hand embroidered the piece is machine stitched.
The ensemble was acquired due to the distinguished neckline of the
gaji
Gaji: (Sindhi), a hip length loose shirt completely covered in embroidered embellishment worn by the women of the Sindh region of South Asia which is strikingly similar to the necklines of traditional women’s (
kandurah
Kandūrah: (Arabic: qandūrah, pl. kanādīr, synonyms: ghandurah
Ghandūrah: (Arabic, pl. qanādīr, synonyms: qandurah, darā’ah, dishdāshah, jalābah, jallābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe), a loose, short or long-sleeved, shirt like (qamis) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences., qandurah
Qandūrah: (Arabic, pl. qanādīr, synonyms: ghandurah
Ghandūrah: (Arabic, pl. qanādīr, synonyms: qandurah, darā’ah, dishdāshah, jalābah, jallābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe), a loose, short or long-sleeved, shirt like (qamis) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences., darā’ah, dishdāshah, jalābah, jallābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe
Tobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. ), a loose, short or long-sleeved, shirt like (qamis) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences. , dra’ah, dishdāshah, jallābīyah, jalābah, jillābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe
Tobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. ) loose, short or long sleeved, shirt like (qamis) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences.) from the UAE.
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