Linen embroidered long jacket – Gujarat

Object Note
Part of an ensemble which includes a blouse and a pair of trousers (ZI2020.500741 ASIA, ZI2020.500741b ASIA) and was purchased along with seven other pieces not related to the ensemble (ZI2020.500741c ASIA, ZI2020.500741d ASIA, ZI2020.500741e ASIA, ZI2020.500741f ASIA, ZI2020.500741g ASIA, ZI2020.500741h ASIA, ZI2020.500741i ASIA).
 
Object History
This multicoloured embellished jacket was purchased by Dr. Reem Tariq

Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.

El Mutwalli Dr. Reem Tariq

Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.

el Mutwallī: Founder (CEO) of the Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative, a public figure, speaker and author. An expert curator and consultant in Islamic art and architecture, interior design, historic costume, and UAE heritage. from Kerry Taylor Auctions, London in 2020 to be added to The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative Collection.
 
Object Features 
This is a (crimson Crimson: (Persian/Arabic and Turkish: qirmiz or kirmiz – red), is a vivid red color originally made from the dried bodies of a scale insect of the Kermes genus native to the Mediterranean region and was used as a dye for clothing and textiles.) red linen jacket with overall heavy embellishment. It is possibly a long robe that was often worn by older women of the lower Sindh region above their hip-length blouse (Sindhi_cholo Sindhi_cholo: (Hindi: choli / kanchli from Sanskrit: kanchuki – a chest band which was one of the three pieces of a full women’s ensemble from ancient India), a loose-fitting tunic traditionally with long sleeves worn by the Sindhi women of South Asia.   ) or (gaji Gaji: (Sindhi), a hip length loose shirt completely covered in embroidered embellishment worn by the women of the Sindh region of South Asia ) and trousers (suthan Suthan: (Sindhi), a pair of wide trousers traditionally worn only by the men from the Sindh region of South Asia until the early 19th century. It was gradually adopted by the women too and was characterised by its gathers or bunches near the knees as opposed to just the ankles. ).
It has loose full sleeves and a front opening with three large buttons made of plastic for fastening. It is densely decorated in floral and geometric designs executed with silk floss Floss: (Old French: flosche – nap of velvet), is a type of silk fibre obtained from the cocoons of wild silkworms. It is characterized by its long, fluffy fibers that are not tightly woven, making it ideal for use in various textile applications such as embroidery, lace-making, and sewing. threads of multiple colours – yellow, purple, ivory, green and burgundy – in (satin_stitch Satin_stitch: (Synonym: Damask Stitch), is a type of flat embroidery stitch that creates a satin like smooth and shiny surface by closely spaced stitches, covering an entire area or shape.) style embroidery.
The hem around the fall has a wide border with repeats of multiple small triangles above which there are three tiers of zigzag patterns in varied thicknesses. This is followed by repeats of herringbone and arrow-like motifs. A similar border is reflected on the cuffs too.
The hem of the placket and the neckline too has a thick border in three tiers running vertically parallel to one another. The first and the third tier are simple zigzag patterns while the middle tier is a thick band of yellow patches with large diamond-shaped motifs repeated in different colours – ivory, purple and green – executed using (blanket_stitch Blanket_stitch: A basic sewing stitch used to secure the edges of fabric or create decorative borders by looping the thread over the edges of blankets, quilts, and other fabrics and pulling it through, forming a series of evenly spaced stitches that resemble a chain. ) style embroidery. It has long side slits and pockets on either side. Although completely hand embroidered the piece is machine stitched.
The ensemble was acquired due to the distinguished neckline of the gaji Gaji: (Sindhi), a hip length loose shirt completely covered in embroidered embellishment worn by the women of the Sindh region of South Asia  which is strikingly similar to the necklines of traditional women’s (kandurah Kandūrah: (Arabic: qandūrah, pl. kanādīr, synonyms: ghandurah Ghandūrah: (Arabic, pl. qanādīr, synonyms: qandurah, darā’ah, dishdāshah, jalābah, jallābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe), a loose, short or long-sleeved, shirt like (qamis

Qamīṣ: (Possibly late Latin: Camisia – Linen Undergarment; Synonym: Kamiz), a traditional loose fitting long tunic or shirt worn by both men and women in South and Central Asia and the Arab world. Typically extending below the waist it is usually paired with a pair of trousers.

) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences., qandurah Qandūrah: (Arabic, pl. qanādīr, synonyms: ghandurah Ghandūrah: (Arabic, pl. qanādīr, synonyms: qandurah, darā’ah, dishdāshah, jalābah, jallābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe), a loose, short or long-sleeved, shirt like (qamis

Qamīṣ: (Possibly late Latin: Camisia – Linen Undergarment; Synonym: Kamiz), a traditional loose fitting long tunic or shirt worn by both men and women in South and Central Asia and the Arab world. Typically extending below the waist it is usually paired with a pair of trousers.

) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences., darā’ah, dishdāshah, jalābah, jallābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. ), a loose, short or long-sleeved, shirt like (qamis

Qamīṣ: (Possibly late Latin: Camisia – Linen Undergarment; Synonym: Kamiz), a traditional loose fitting long tunic or shirt worn by both men and women in South and Central Asia and the Arab world. Typically extending below the waist it is usually paired with a pair of trousers.

) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences. , dra’ah, dishdāshah, jallābīyah, jalābah, jillābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. )  loose, short or long sleeved, shirt like (qamis

Qamīṣ: (Possibly late Latin: Camisia – Linen Undergarment; Synonym: Kamiz), a traditional loose fitting long tunic or shirt worn by both men and women in South and Central Asia and the Arab world. Typically extending below the waist it is usually paired with a pair of trousers.

) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences.) from the UAE.
 
Links

• Collection, Asian Costumes and Textiles from the Bosphorus to Fujiyama: The Zaira and Marcel Mis. Asian Costumes and Textiles from the Bosphorus to Fujiyama: The Zaira and Marcel Mis Collection. Calfornia: Skira, 2009. 


• https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O476922/shirt-unknown/ 


• https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O455666/jacket-unknown/ 


• https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O476579/bodice Bodice: (English: body), or bodices the plural form of body, it is the close-fitting garment meant to cover the body above the waist or the torso. However, it was not until the 17th century that the term became synonymous to women’s undergarment. / 


• https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O440804/jacket-unknown/ 


• https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O475902/trousers-unknown/ 


• https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O453662/blouse-unknown/ 


• https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O475760/trousers-unknown/ 


• https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O69766/trousers-unknown/ 


• https://www.thevoiceoffashion.com/fabric-of-india


• https://www.dawn.com/news


• https://brill.com/view/journals


• https://books.google.ae/books