Object Note
This overgarment (thawb) is similar to another in the Zay Initiative’s Collection (ZI1990.500171 KSA). The main difference being the present example has much wider overexaggerated sleeves.
This specific type of overgarment (thawb) is called (thawb_najdi), referring to the Najd region of Saudi Arabia, where it is commonly worn. Locally, it is also known as (thawb_mnaykhil), (thawb_tur), and (thawb_sahabi).
Object History
During her visit in December 2019 to discuss some of the Yemeni items in the Zay Initiative’s Collection, Marjorie Ransom gifted this overgarment (thawb) to Dr. Reem Tariq El Mutwalli. It originally belonged to Marjorie’s close friend (who wishes to remain anonymous) an expat in Saudi Arabia in the early 1990s, most probably the overgarment belonged to a member of the Al Saud royal family.
Marjorie Ransom is an expert on Middle Eastern silver jewelry and the author of Silver Treasures from the Land of Sheba: Yemeni Regional Jewelry. She has lived in Yemen, Jordan, Lebanon, United Arab Emirates, Syria, and Egypt.
Object Features
This overgarment (thawb) is made of black synthetic reticulate tulle (tur) with a repeated pattern of a star and crescent moon. Its overall shape is derived by plainly folding the length of the fabric and cutting an opening at the centre of the fold to allow the head to pass through, creating the neckline, and defining the central dress panel. Three equal size panels are then stitched together in horizontal strips and attached to each side of the central panel creating the upper part of the oversized two-meter-wide sleeves ending with a large gusset (tikhrasah) or (bat) at knee height. The tikhrasah is brocaded in gold (zari) depicting plant, sword, star, and crescent motifs.
A hand embroidered trim (kulfah) of green, gold, and pink sequins (tirtir) adorn the sleeve hemlines. The yoke (jayib) is embellished with alternating triangular-shaped motifs (shahm_wa_lahm) in silver and gold coil thread (zari), appliqued in a bib form that extends from the neckline to right above the navel. The overgarment (thawb) also stands out with its long train at the back.
This type of garment is generally worn on top of a tunic dress (dara’ah), (kurtah) or (muqata’) and is reserved for special occasions. The lavish sleeves are made to impress, and the larger the sleeves, the higher the status of the wearer.
More Information
Alghalib, L. F., Alireza, H., & Wilding, R. (Eds.). Traditional costumes of Saudi Arabia: The Mansoojat Foundation Collection. ACC Art Books, 2021.
Thawb_mnaykhil: blog link
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