Silk braids - Egypt

Object Note
These two colourful braids (kutan Kūṭan: (Siwi Amazigh), braids used to decorate the Siwan bride’s hair, made of colourful silk threads with red as the most prominent colour. Embellished with mother-of-pearl buttons, sequins, charms, and horseshoes, the braids add an elegant appearance to the bride, bring her good luck, and support her desire to have children.) accompany the white Siwan wedding tunic (Ashirah_lamilal Ashirāḥ_lāmilāl: (Siwi Amazigh: white dress), refers to a white garment adorned with colourful silk threads, shells, and buttons made of nacre or mother-of-pearl (tutin_tfukt Tūtīn_tfūkt: (Siwi Amazigh: the eye of the sun), refers to the buttons made of nacre (the mother-of-pearl buttons), used to decorate wedding dresses in Siwa Oasis, where mother-of-pearl is a form of talisman that attracts sunlight and reflects energy to its wearer.). Worn by brides in Siwa, Egypt on the third day of the wedding celebration.) (ZI2019.500491 EGYPT). However, the full outfit would traditionally include the head veil (trukit Trūkīt: (Siwi Amazigh), a black scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. typically made of viscose voile, now made of polyester. Heavily hand embroidered in colourful silk threads, with equal distances, alternating seams in religious and Siwan motifs, and adorned with mother-of-pearl buttons and long fringes, worn first at wedding ceremonies. Due to its weight, it is placed on knees.) and underpants (khawatim Khawātim: (Pl. of khātim: Arabic: to end), refers to white cotton underpants that are tight at the ankles. The name refers to the three-square colourful silk motif (khātim) embroidered on the lower part of the underpants. It is worn by Siwan women in Egypt under dresses and tied at the waist by an embroidered band (takkat).), shoes (zrabin Zrābīn: (Arabic: zarab: to cage), traditional shoes worn by Siwan bride, made of soft red goatskin, and colourfully embroidered in the shape of small triangles.) and jewellery to complete it.
 
Object History 
These two Siwa braids (kutan Kūṭan: (Siwi Amazigh), braids used to decorate the Siwan bride’s hair, made of colourful silk threads with red as the most prominent colour. Embellished with mother-of-pearl buttons, sequins, charms, and horseshoes, the braids add an elegant appearance to the bride, bring her good luck, and support her desire to have children.) were originally part of Mrs. Sheila Payne’s collection. Then purchased from Kerry Taylor’s auction to add to The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative collection.
Sheila Paine is a collector of textiles acquired during her travels; author of several books, including 'Chikan embroidery: the floral whitework of India' (Aylesbury 1989), 'Embroidered Textiles: traditional patterns from five continents with a worldwide guide to identification (London 1989), 'The Afghan Amulet: travels from the Hindu Kush to Razgrad' (London 1994), 'Amulets: a world of secret powers, charms and magic' (London 2004). The British Museum acquired a number of items from her collection when this was sold through public auction at Dreweatts (q.v.) in April and November 2008.
 
Object Features 
These two long thick braids (kutan Kūṭan: (Siwi Amazigh), braids used to decorate the Siwan bride’s hair, made of colourful silk threads with red as the most prominent colour. Embellished with mother-of-pearl buttons, sequins, charms, and horseshoes, the braids add an elegant appearance to the bride, bring her good luck, and support her desire to have children.) traditionally adorn the hair of Siwan bride in Egypt. Here, they are attached to a wedding tunic (ashirah_lamilal Ashirāḥ_lāmilāl: (Siwi Amazigh: white dress), refers to a white garment adorned with colourful silk threads, shells, and buttons made of nacre or mother-of-pearl (tutin_tfukt Tūtīn_tfūkt: (Siwi Amazigh: the eye of the sun), refers to the buttons made of nacre (the mother-of-pearl buttons), used to decorate wedding dresses in Siwa Oasis, where mother-of-pearl is a form of talisman that attracts sunlight and reflects energy to its wearer.). Worn by brides in Siwa, Egypt on the third day of the wedding celebration.) with metal buttons on either side of the neck opening to drop down on the yoke Yoke: (Synonym: Bodice_Yoke), a structured pattern fitted at the shoulders defining the structure of women’s garments. Introduced in c. 1880s it defines the transition between the upper and lower parts of the garments and can now be found stitched-in where the blouse is separated from the skirt by a horizontal seam. .
The two braids (kutan Kūṭan: (Siwi Amazigh), braids used to decorate the Siwan bride’s hair, made of colourful silk threads with red as the most prominent colour. Embellished with mother-of-pearl buttons, sequins, charms, and horseshoes, the braids add an elegant appearance to the bride, bring her good luck, and support her desire to have children.) are made up of a large group of small colourful woollen yarns braids. Colours include orange, yellow, olive green, and red. The number of braids per strand are said to be 99, in reference to the 99 names of Allah. They are embellished with nacre and glass buttons in turquoise Turquoise: (French: turquois – present day Türkiye; Synonyms: firuze Firuze: (Persian: pērōzah – "victory", later Arabic: fayrūz; Synonyms: firuze, pheroza), is a naturally occurring opaque mineral mined in abundance in Khorasan province of Iran and has been used for making dye for centuries.  , pheroza), is a naturally occurring opaque mineral mined in abundance in Khorasan province of Iran and has been used for making dye for centuries. The term is a derivative of the French word for the country Türkiye once called Turkey. , red, yellow, pink, and black colours.
 
More details
A distinctive feature of the Siwa oasis garments is the number of different ways in which the buttons are sewn onto the dresses. Most of the buttons have four holes, and at least eighteen different ways of sewing the buttons on garments have been identified. There does not appear to be a specific reason behind the use of these patterns, and it seems that the decorative effect is sufficient. In addition, a wider variety of effects is created by using differently coloured sewing threads and the addition of small, coloured sequins in the centre of the buttons.
After marriage, the woman wears the traditional shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool.  (tarfutit) if she wants to leave her home. It is a black shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool. , often embroidered with certain shapes and symbols, that covers the wearer from head to toe, with one hand holding the shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool.  in front of the face leaving only a narrow opening in front of one eye, and with the other hand controlling the shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool.  at the chest.
 
More information
Embroidery and Adornment from the Siwa Oasis
Embroidery and Adornment from Siwa Oasis – International influence and Exchange
Embroidery and Adornment from the Siwa Oasis part 3: Pharaonic connections