Object History
This object was specially commissioned by Dr. Reem Tariq El Mutwalli from Al Zarqa stores, Jaber Market, Doha in 2018 to be added to and enhance The Zay Initiative collections.
Object Features
This is a black georgette front open women’s robe (abayah)/(bisht) with tassels and embroidered embellishment.
The field of the abayah is plain except for the neckline which is embellished with thick panels of metal threads (zari) mostly in gold and silver using a variety of embroidery techniques such as (satin_stitch), (couching), (butterfly_stitch), (blanket_stitch), (herringbone_stitch) and (chain_stitch). The two front sides and the back of the neck feature mostly geometric designs with repeats of small rectangles flanked by trimming-style embroidered panels.
The thick neckline finishes at the waist where a thick panel of floral arrangement extends horizontally creating the waistline. The arrangement constitutes a central wavy vine flanked with foliage framed by two thick panels with a triangular head. This is followed by another floral arrangement with a base of two flowers interconnected and topped with a half-circle crescent-shaped motif. The cuffs and the hemline have gold trimming in satin_stitch style embroidery and have two tassels (‘amayil) made of gold and silver threads for fastening.
A maker’s tag on the abayah suggests that it was made by Abayat Al Zarqi, in Doha, Qatar. Traditionally abayas like these are typically crafted from two equally long pieces of fabric that are sewn together horizontally, leaving a vertical front opening along the midriff. The outer edges of each length are folded towards the centre and sewn at the top to form the shoulder line. Openings are then made on either side for the hands, creating the sleeves.
Links
- https://www.moc.gov.qa/en/national-day-clothes-of-the-state-of-qatar-adorn-darb-al-saai/
- https://nationalclothing.org/middle-east/69-qatar/158-traditional-qatari-men-s-national-dress.html
- https://www.askexplorer.com/qatar/residents/about/culture-lifestyle/national-dress
- https://www.hilalplaza.com/blogs/islamic-cultures/120524419-the-culture-of-qatar
- http://qatarcultureclub.blogspot.com/2011/11/traditional-costume.html
- https://www.expatwoman.com/qatar/guide/faqs/traditional-qatari-attire
- https://www.planetjawal.com/qatar-traditional-clothing/