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Silver embellished silk cloak - Qatar

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Local NameAbayah mchabah
Object CategoryCloak    
GenderFemale    
Date of objectCirca 1960
Place Of orginLebanon
RegionQatar
Object RangeQatar, Bahrain, Emirates, Saudi Arabia, Kuwait, Iraq
DimensionsLength: 172cm Width: 162cm
MaterialsSilk    Metal    
TechniqueMachine Stitched    Embellished    
Color
ProvenanceGifted, Mr. Jabir al Hajiri, Qatar, 2017
LocationThe Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative
StatusIn storage
ZI numberZI2017.50037.2 QATAR
Object Note   
According to the label, this cloak (Abayat Al Amirat) is made by Nassar and Zaidan company in Lebanon. 
 
Object History   
Mr. Jabir Al-Hajiri contacted Dr. Reem Tariq

Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.

El Mutwalli
Dr. Reem Tariq

Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.

el Mutwallī: Founder (CEO) of the Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative, a public figure, speaker and author. An expert curator and consultant in Islamic art and architecture, interior design, historic costume, and UAE heritage.
through Instagram, due to mutual passion for culture and heritage, and offered to help by sending a few articles as a contribution to the Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. collection, including this cloak (abayah  ‘Abāyah: (Arabic: cloak, Pl. ‘abāyāt, or ‘Ibī. In Classical Arabic: ‘abā’ah, pl: ‘abā’āt, synonyms: ‘Abā, ‘abāh, ‘abāt, dafah Daffah : (Arabic: side, synonyms: ‘Abā, ‘abāyah, ‘abāh, ‘abāt, bisht or mishlaḥ), long, wide, and sleeveless outer cloak worn in public by both sexes. In time this article of dress evolved and changed in shape, style, and function., bisht, or mishlaḥ), long, wide, and sleeveless outer cloak worn in public by both sexes. In time this article of dress evolved and changed in shape, style, and function.). He recalled he had bought it sometime in the past from a traveling salesman  (Lilam Līlām or Laylām : (In Urdu. The origin is Nīlām: means bidding). A slang term for an Asian street salesman known to most Gulf countries. In the past, he used to go around the houses to sell fabrics and clothes which he carried in a large parcel on his back. He called out “Nīlām”. The word has been changed to Līlām.) or from the flea market (Suq_Al Haraj Sūq_al Ḥarāj: (Arabic. suq: market, a place where goods are brought to buy and sell, pl: aswāq). This market has several names according to the country. In the Gulf, it is called Sūq al Ḥarāj, and in Lebanon, Sūq Barghūt.) in Doha.

 
Object Features   
As a whole any cloak (abayah  ‘Abāyah: (Arabic: cloak, Pl. ‘abāyāt, or ‘Ibī. In Classical Arabic: ‘abā’ah, pl: ‘abā’āt, synonyms: ‘Abā, ‘abāh, ‘abāt, dafah Daffah : (Arabic: side, synonyms: ‘Abā, ‘abāyah, ‘abāh, ‘abāt, bisht or mishlaḥ), long, wide, and sleeveless outer cloak worn in public by both sexes. In time this article of dress evolved and changed in shape, style, and function., bisht, or mishlaḥ), long, wide, and sleeveless outer cloak worn in public by both sexes. In time this article of dress evolved and changed in shape, style, and function.), (bisht Bisht: (Arabic: bjd or bjād: cloak, Akkadian: bishtu or Persian: back, pl. bshūt synonyms: ‘Abā,‘abāyah, ‘abāh, ‘abāt, dafah Daffah : (Arabic: side, synonyms: ‘Abā, ‘abāyah, ‘abāh, ‘abāt, bisht or mishlaḥ), long, wide, and sleeveless outer cloak worn in public by both sexes. In time this article of dress evolved and changed in shape, style, and function., or mishlaḥ), long, wide, and sleeveless outer cloak worn in public by men. In time this article of dress evolved and changed in shape, style, and function.), (mishlah Mishlaḥ: (Arabic: to take off, synonyms: ‘Abā, ‘abāyah, ‘abāh, ‘abāt, dafah Daffah : (Arabic: side, synonyms: ‘Abā, ‘abāyah, ‘abāh, ‘abāt, bisht or mishlaḥ), long, wide, and sleeveless outer cloak worn in public by both sexes. In time this article of dress evolved and changed in shape, style, and function. or bisht), long, wide, and sleeveless outer cloak worn in public by men. In time this article of dress evolved and changed in shape, style, and function.), (dafah Daffah : (Arabic: side, synonyms: ‘Abā, ‘abāyah, ‘abāh, ‘abāt, bisht or mishlaḥ), long, wide, and sleeveless outer cloak worn in public by both sexes. In time this article of dress evolved and changed in shape, style, and function.), is generally constructed from two rectangular pieces of fabric of equal length (fajatayn Fajatayn: (Arabic: fajah: strip between two mountains), two strips, bolts or lengths of fabric used to measure finished cloth.) sewn together horizontally. 
The two outer edges of each length (fajah fajah: (Arabic: Fujah: gap between two mountains), denotes a single length of fabric.) are folded to the middle and sewn at the top to create the shoulder line. The lengthwise folded sides fajatayn Fajatayn: (Arabic: fajah: strip between two mountains), two strips, bolts or lengths of fabric used to measure finished cloth. thus leave an opening in the middle running the length of the front body section. 
Two small holes are opened at the folded line, on the top corners of each shoulder line to allow the hands to pass through creating the sleeves without having to cut and add a sleeve as in most clothes.  
The open edges at the center of the cloak (dafah Daffah : (Arabic: side, synonyms: ‘Abā, ‘abāyah, ‘abāh, ‘abāt, bisht or mishlaḥ), long, wide, and sleeveless outer cloak worn in public by both sexes. In time this article of dress evolved and changed in shape, style, and function.) as it is called in this region, as well as the seams at the shoulders and the wrists, are generally delineated with a gilded cord (qitan Qīṭān: (Arabic: cord or lace, synonym: tirsan, ṭirsān, kāblī), comes in woven/braided colored silk or metallic thread, used in hemming or embroidery. The letter (qāf) is pronounced (ga) in colloquial dialects.). In this particular example silver straw (talli

Tallī: (Turkish: tel – wire, string), Gulf Arab – a woven braided trimming made with metal wire, threads and ribbons often sewn on detachable panels used as embellishments. Other – (Synonym: tulle_bi_talli

Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi

Khus_dozi: (Persian: Khvosh – an Iranian province; dozi – needlework; Synonym: tariq; talli; tulle_bi_talli; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.

; tariq; badla; khus_dozi

Khus_dozi: (Persian: Khvosh – an Iranian province; dozi – needlework; Synonym: tariq; talli; tulle_bi_talli; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

) is applied by hand in two alternating stitches creating a chain; four cross stitches, followed by four stem stitches then repeated, thus it is known as  (Mchabah). 

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