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Silk cloak – UAE

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Local NameAbayah
Object CategoryCloak    
GenderFemale    
Date of object2000
Place Of orginUnited Arab Emirates
RegionDubai
Object RangeUnited Arab Emirates
DimensionsLength: 186 cm Width: 163 cm
MaterialsSilk    
TechniqueMachine Stitched    
Color
ProvenanceDonated, Mariam Abdullah Al Murr, Dubai 2000
LocationTraditional Dress House, Al Shindagha Museum, Dubai, UAE
StatusOn loan
ZI numberZI2000.500393 UAE
Object History 
This cloak (abayah  ‘Abāyah: (Arabic: cloak, Pl. ‘abāyāt, or ‘Ibī. In Classical Arabic: ‘abā’ah, pl: ‘abā’āt, synonyms: ‘Abā, ‘abāh, ‘abāt, dafah Daffah : (Arabic: side, synonyms: ‘Abā, ‘abāyah, ‘abāh, ‘abāt, bisht or mishlaḥ), long, wide, and sleeveless outer cloak worn in public by both sexes. In time this article of dress evolved and changed in shape, style, and function., bisht, or mishlaḥ), long, wide, and sleeveless outer cloak worn in public by both sexes. In time this article of dress evolved and changed in shape, style, and function.) was donated by Mariam Abdullah Al Murr, a socialite from Dubai, and was worn for only a brief period of time as a part of a short lived fashion trend that came, played a role, and then disappeared.
Mariam, a BS graduate of American University Sharjah and works at Dubai tourist authority. She is married to her maternal cousin and has 2 daughters and 3 sons.
 
Object Features 
This cloak is an interesting example of an evolved abayah  ‘Abāyah: (Arabic: cloak, Pl. ‘abāyāt, or ‘Ibī. In Classical Arabic: ‘abā’ah, pl: ‘abā’āt, synonyms: ‘Abā, ‘abāh, ‘abāt, dafah Daffah : (Arabic: side, synonyms: ‘Abā, ‘abāyah, ‘abāh, ‘abāt, bisht or mishlaḥ), long, wide, and sleeveless outer cloak worn in public by both sexes. In time this article of dress evolved and changed in shape, style, and function., bisht, or mishlaḥ), long, wide, and sleeveless outer cloak worn in public by both sexes. In time this article of dress evolved and changed in shape, style, and function.. The growth of the cosmopolitan social and commercial life of Dubai at the start of the new century led to a level of cross-cultural fertilization that resulted in the development of Arabic clothing with western influences. Women in Dubai were generally the first to experiment with such novel trends.
If you imagine a square fabric, spread it on a flat surface, and fold the corners so they meet at the center, you have basically created the shape of this cloak (abayah  ‘Abāyah: (Arabic: cloak, Pl. ‘abāyāt, or ‘Ibī. In Classical Arabic: ‘abā’ah, pl: ‘abā’āt, synonyms: ‘Abā, ‘abāh, ‘abāt, dafah Daffah : (Arabic: side, synonyms: ‘Abā, ‘abāyah, ‘abāh, ‘abāt, bisht or mishlaḥ), long, wide, and sleeveless outer cloak worn in public by both sexes. In time this article of dress evolved and changed in shape, style, and function., bisht, or mishlaḥ), long, wide, and sleeveless outer cloak worn in public by both sexes. In time this article of dress evolved and changed in shape, style, and function.). A diamond-shaped gusset signifies this centre point where the fabric is gathered and attached.
This abayah  ‘Abāyah: (Arabic: cloak, Pl. ‘abāyāt, or ‘Ibī. In Classical Arabic: ‘abā’ah, pl: ‘abā’āt, synonyms: ‘Abā, ‘abāh, ‘abāt, dafah Daffah : (Arabic: side, synonyms: ‘Abā, ‘abāyah, ‘abāh, ‘abāt, bisht or mishlaḥ), long, wide, and sleeveless outer cloak worn in public by both sexes. In time this article of dress evolved and changed in shape, style, and function., bisht, or mishlaḥ), long, wide, and sleeveless outer cloak worn in public by both sexes. In time this article of dress evolved and changed in shape, style, and function. is made from a stretchy lustrous synthetic silk and employs a highly stylised cape format, used to accentuate the figure by draping to create a silhouette, in contrast to their earlier baggy, shapeless cousin. This type of cloak (abayah  ‘Abāyah: (Arabic: cloak, Pl. ‘abāyāt, or ‘Ibī. In Classical Arabic: ‘abā’ah, pl: ‘abā’āt, synonyms: ‘Abā, ‘abāh, ‘abāt, dafah Daffah : (Arabic: side, synonyms: ‘Abā, ‘abāyah, ‘abāh, ‘abāt, bisht or mishlaḥ), long, wide, and sleeveless outer cloak worn in public by both sexes. In time this article of dress evolved and changed in shape, style, and function., bisht, or mishlaḥ), long, wide, and sleeveless outer cloak worn in public by both sexes. In time this article of dress evolved and changed in shape, style, and function.) was worn in public for everyday use and became popular as a fashion statement to show more of the wearer’s body shape while still adhering to traditional customs.

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