Object note
This overgarment (thawb) is specifically called (thawb najdi), referring to the Najd region of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, where it is commonly worn. Locally, it is also known as (thawb mnaykhal منيخل) (Arabic minkhal منخل) meaning ‘mesh strainer,’ referencing the perforated nature of the fabric that resembles a mesh strainer, or (thawb tur) from the Arabized French word tulle.
Object history
This thawb was a gift from one of the Al Saud princesses to Sajidah Nuri Al-Mutwalli, the aunt of Dr.Reem Tariq El-Mutwalli, when she was performing the rites of pilgrimage.
Sajidah Nuri Al-Mutwallī was born in Baghdad’s Al-Adhamiyah neighborhood in the year 1924 A.D. She was the eldest daughter to her parents and had 2 younger sisters and 3 brothers. Her father, Nuri Abdul Aziz Al-Mutwalli, was the last appointed caretaker to the Sunni shrine of Imam Abu Hanifa in Iraq. Sajidah married her cousin, Kamal Abdul Latif Hamid, at the age of 16 and had four children, two daughters, and two sons. She completed her studies and graduated with a degree in home economics and worked as a teacher. She died and was buried in Abu Dhabi on May 26, 2007. This thawb was passed down to her niece, Dr. Reem, and is now in the Zay Initiative’s Collection.
Object features
This thawb is stitched in a simple and oversized T-shape from a floral transparent black tulle (tur). The embroidery is made with golden threads (zari) with geometric shapes, specifically triangles ending in half-circle like arches. The embroidery starts from the top of the shoulders to the end of the neck opening on both sides, then slopes downwards to form a V-shape in line with the neck opening, so that the base of the V reaches right above the navel.
The embroidery continues down the back to reach the end of the hips, but the two embroidered pieces just barely touch.
Under each sleeve, there is a triangular piece of fuchsia cloth called (bat), which is decorated with golden flowers and leaves. The extra wide circumference of the sleeves are embellished with a crochet ribbon worked with silver and gold threads, and decorated with golden sequins and red beads. This garment would be worn for special occasions.
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