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Silver embellished undergarment – UAE

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Local Name	Sarwal talli badlah fadhah
Object Category	Undergarment
Gender	Female
Date of object	1950
Place Of orgin	United Arab Emirates
Region	Sharjah
Object Range	UAE, Oman
Dimensions	Length: 99 cm Width: 88 cm
Materials	Cotton
Technique	Machine Stitched Embellished
Color
Motif	Geometric
Provenance	Purchased, Um Abdullah, Sharjah 1975
Location	Zeman Awwal, Mall of the Emirates
Status	On Display
ZI number	ZI1975.50020 UAE

Object Note
We were fortunate to obtain this rare article, and another similar one (ZI1975.50030 UAE), from one source. Both are in great condition.

Object History 
Due to the prevailing notions of modesty in Arab cultures, this is one of the rarest undergarments in the UAE. Objects like this rarely come to market because of their age, their high value due to the silver adornment, and last but not least, because they are undergarments ().
el Mutwalli el Mutwallī: Founder (CEO) of the Initiative, a public figure, speaker and author. An expert curator and consultant in Islamic art and architecture, interior design, historic costume, and UAE heritage. has only come across a few silver examples in her lifetime. We are lucky to have three of them in The  Collection.
This example was purchased from a lady who, for the above-mentioned rationale, chose not to give her name, thus we know her as  Abdullah, from the Al Muhairi tribe of the UAE.
Abdullah had stopped wearing this object because it’s old-fashioned. She had held on to it due to the value of the silver cuffs (; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.

) and for sentimental reasons. The garment was inherited () from her mother, who in turn was bequeathed it from her mother. As a child,  Abdullah remembers her grandmother wearing them.
She felt reserved () over letting go of such an intimate article of dress. Like many other women who do not comprehend the documentary value of placing their items within a historical collection, they could only be encouraged to sell their items to The  Collection following the suggestion that they use the proceeds as (el Mutwalli 2012, (https://thezay.org/shop/sadaqah/).), to help build a mosque or school. Their reserve was multi-layered; it being an undergarment and an intimate article of dress. In addition, the act of selling can infer financial need, and even after they were convinced to do so for the sake of charity, they followed the tradition that dictates one does not publicly declare good deeds.

Object Features 
Basic pink cotton fabric is used for this garment. The baggy waistline is gathered and fixed in place with the quintessential traditional cotton cord (). The more tapered legs with embellished ankle-cuffs show the remanence of metal snap studs () to open and close, possibly replacing earlier traditional cotton thread ball buttons (igam).
As silver is the main embellishing element of the decorative cuffs (; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.

) on this undergarment (), it means they were not made for everyday use, except for those who could afford it.
Made of braided pure silver straw ( ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

) they represent a physical example of the traditional Arabic saying (), meaning “beauty and wealth in one”. The silver normally decorated the visible cuffs (; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.

) to show status and style and could be melted down and sold in times of need.
The visible cuffs are generally composed of multiple lines of braids () or (), that are individually created by knotting together cotton (), silk () or synthetic () threads with silver (), gold plated, or metallic () straw. This has resulted in the creation of over forty distinct recorded designs, in varying widths and intricacies, often named after the motifs depicted on them.
The ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.

  consists of the large central part ( motifs, and hemmed by a few lines forming the rim (trāf).) and the edges () or ( band that creates the edge or ending on the cuffs (bādilah) and can come in different designs. ). The  motifs, and hemmed by a few lines forming the rim (trāf). can be between one and twenty braids of ( ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

) with different decorations, then the braids are sewn manually with each other so that the  motifs, and hemmed by a few lines forming the rim (trāf). is surrounded by the  to form its borders.
The traditional basic style of ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.

includes several stripes called (talli_shakl) also known as ( band that creates the edge or ending on the cuffs (bādilah) and can come in different designs. ), which are located between the  motifs, and hemmed by a few lines forming the rim (trāf). and the . Usually, a (talli_qitan) is placed on the lower edge, while the upper edge is decorated with a () or (). Each braid is made separately and then the braids are manually sewn together.
The large and wide ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.

 as this example illustrates is usually reserved for social occasions, and the smaller, narrower one as in the other sample (ZI1975.50030 UAE) is applied on an everyday or those worn by an elderly woman.
In this example, the top braid is in black cotton () thread and silver straw , created in a saw tooth motif called (); below it is two sets of five running stitch motifs (talli_ftul); followed by the fourth band in green cotton thread and silver straw, in one running snake-like () motif; the fifth band is in a red 5 cm running stitch motif (talli_ftul); followed by a 2 cm wide band of repetitive alternating triangular motifs ().
The cuff edges () are created in the style of 5 cm (talli_ftul); using red then white, followed by a central 1 cm wide running snake (talli_ghuli_mraba’) motif; followed by three lines of ().

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