Embellished Tulle Robe – Najd

Object History  

This item was acquired by Dr. Reem El Mutwalli from her paternal aunt, Sajidah Nuri El Mutwall, in 1990 as a gift. 

Born in the Al Adamiyah neighbourhood in Baghdad in 1924, Sajidah was the eldest of her siblings. Her father, Nuri Abdul Aziz El Mutwalli, was the last appointed caretaker of the Sunni shrine of Imam Abu Hanifa in Iraq. 

Sajidah married her cousin Kamal Abdul Latif Hamid at the age of 16, and together they had four children – two sons and two daughters. She graduated with a degree in home economics and moved to Abu Dhabi, where she passed away on May 26, 2007, at the age of 83. 

While on her pilgrimage – hajj – to Mecca, Saudi Arabia, at the invitation of a Saudi royal princess from the House of Al Sa’ud in 1989, Sajidah originally received this piece as a gift from her. It was eventually added to The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative collections to enhance and enrich it.  

Object Features  

This is a traditional Gulf Arab style woman’s robe (thawb Thawb: (Arabic: thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thobe Thobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women in the Arabian Gulf region.  ), often locally referred to as the (thawb_najdi

Thawb_Najdī: (Arabic: Najd – a region in the KSA; Synonym: najdi), a type of elaborately decorated women’s traditional garment or thawb from Saudi Arabia traditionally made in Najd characterised by their wide sleeves along with large and elaborate underarm gussets and embellished neckline, both front and back.

), possibly because it was made in Najd, Saudi Arabia. It features dense and elaborate embroidered patterns, a deep V-shaped neckline with a slitted opening in the middle and very wide sleeves.  

Constructed of a black Point d'Esprit style tulle, the najdi

Najdī: (Arabic: Najd – a region in the KSA; Synonym: thawb_najdi

Thawb_Najdī: (Arabic: Najd – a region in the KSA; Synonym: najdi), a type of elaborately decorated women’s traditional garment or thawb from Saudi Arabia traditionally made in Najd characterised by their wide sleeves along with large and elaborate underarm gussets and embellished neckline, both front and back.

), a type of elaborately decorated women’s traditional garment or thawb Thawb: (Arabic: thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thobe Thobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women in the Arabian Gulf region.   from Saudi Arabia traditionally made in Najd characterised by its wide sleeves along with large and elaborate underarm gussets and embellished neckline, both front and back.

features metal thread (zari Zarī: (Persian two-syllables: zar: gold & dozi: embellishment), complex embroidery technique that uses metal alloy on silk, satin, or velvet, and may include pearls, beads, and precious stones. Colloquially in the Arab gulf region, the term (zarī) is loosely applied to any gilded thread, embellishment or gilded brocade fabric. Originated in ancient Persia it has been used extensively in Indian and Middle Eastern textiles for centuries. ) / (sabtah

Sabtah: (Arabic), traditionally a metal thread used for decorative purposes on fabric akin to zari Zarī: (Persian two-syllables: zar: gold & dozi: embellishment), complex embroidery technique that uses metal alloy on silk, satin, or velvet, and may include pearls, beads, and precious stones. Colloquially in the Arab gulf region, the term (zarī) is loosely applied to any gilded thread, embellishment or gilded brocade fabric. Originated in ancient Persia it has been used extensively in Indian and Middle Eastern textiles for centuries.  in Saudi Arabia. Often made of precious metal like gold and silver, these threads were once commonly used for embroidery as well as weave. It is also imitated in lurex as a cost-effective alternative today.

), possibly silver and gold (shahm_wa_lahm Shaḥm_wa_laḥm: (Arabic: shahm: fat, lahm: flesh), is a colloquial Arab term to show any alternating sequences such as colour, embroidery, or adornment.) or gilded silver embellished with floral and geometric patterns executed primarily in (couching

Couching: (Latin: collocare – Place together), in needlework and embroidery couching is a technique in which yarn or other materials are laid across the surface of the ground fabric and fastened in place with small stitches of the same or a different yarn

) style embroidery and highlighted with gilded metal sequins. The front central panel features the most elaborate embroidered embellishment, while the rest of the najdi

Najdī: (Arabic: Najd – a region in the KSA; Synonym: thawb_najdi

Thawb_Najdī: (Arabic: Najd – a region in the KSA; Synonym: najdi), a type of elaborately decorated women’s traditional garment or thawb from Saudi Arabia traditionally made in Najd characterised by their wide sleeves along with large and elaborate underarm gussets and embellished neckline, both front and back.

), a type of elaborately decorated women’s traditional garment or thawb Thawb: (Arabic: thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thobe Thobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women in the Arabian Gulf region.   from Saudi Arabia traditionally made in Najd characterised by its wide sleeves along with large and elaborate underarm gussets and embellished neckline, both front and back.

features a woven floral repeat all over.  

The front central panel along the neckline features a very wide band of triangular repeats in vertical rows. Each row is alternated between gold and silver. The triangles increase in size as the rows progress inward from the edge of the neckline. The inner edge of each side is bordered with a scalloped banner alternately in gold and silver. 

The neckline meets at a shallow V with a long slit at its base. The embellished band running along the neckline from the shoulder covers the entire front torso, converging into a triangular shape at the bottom. A similar shape is reflected at the back.  

The sleeves of the najdi

Najdī: (Arabic: Najd – a region in the KSA; Synonym: thawb_najdi

Thawb_Najdī: (Arabic: Najd – a region in the KSA; Synonym: najdi), a type of elaborately decorated women’s traditional garment or thawb from Saudi Arabia traditionally made in Najd characterised by their wide sleeves along with large and elaborate underarm gussets and embellished neckline, both front and back.

), a type of elaborately decorated women’s traditional garment or thawb Thawb: (Arabic: thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thobe Thobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women in the Arabian Gulf region.   from Saudi Arabia traditionally made in Najd characterised by its wide sleeves along with large and elaborate underarm gussets and embellished neckline, both front and back.

are rather wide, much wider than other thawbs of such kind, almost akin to a (thawb_hashmi

Thawb_hāshmī: (Arabic: a direct reference to the Banu Hashim tribe of Saudi Arabia). It is a traditional Iraqi women's overgarment (thawb), closely resembling the (nashil) and Najdi (thawb).

). The edge of each sleeve is trimmed with a wide band of scalloped banner with a circular eye in the centre, combined with star-shaped repeats with possibly metal sequins in pink, gold, green and black.  

The gusset of each sleeve is constructed of a large triangular piece of silk brocade Brocade: (Italian: brocco – twisted thread), is a richly decorative fabric woven with an intricate raised pattern. Its origins can be traced back to ancient China, where it was made for the imperial court. It later spread to Europe during the Renaissance and became popular in couture and decorative arts.  fabric. Possibly of Indian origin, the brocade Brocade: (Italian: brocco – twisted thread), is a richly decorative fabric woven with an intricate raised pattern. Its origins can be traced back to ancient China, where it was made for the imperial court. It later spread to Europe during the Renaissance and became popular in couture and decorative arts.  is woven in silk and silver, featuring repeats of floral and foliage patterns along a thin, wavy central vine.  

It should be mentioned that the method of adorning the edges of the sleeves can serve as a useful indicator for dating the garment. When the underside of the hem of the sleeves is adorned, it is typically of an earlier period, whereas if the hem adornment faces outward, it suggests a later date. 

Historically, the custom involved folding and draping the garment’s wide sleeves over the head of the wearer to cover their head and hair as a sign of modesty. To display the embroidery effectively, it was applied to the inside. 

Over time, this practice lost significance as subsequent generations adopted smaller, less voluminous sleeves, which were no longer draped over the head. In contemporary versions, if the sleeves were to be draped, the decorative trim would appear reversed. 

Featuring a long train or tail at the back, the najdi

Najdī: (Arabic: Najd – a region in the KSA; Synonym: thawb_najdi

Thawb_Najdī: (Arabic: Najd – a region in the KSA; Synonym: najdi), a type of elaborately decorated women’s traditional garment or thawb from Saudi Arabia traditionally made in Najd characterised by their wide sleeves along with large and elaborate underarm gussets and embellished neckline, both front and back.

), a type of elaborately decorated women’s traditional garment or thawb Thawb: (Arabic: thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thobe Thobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women in the Arabian Gulf region.   from Saudi Arabia traditionally made in Najd characterised by its wide sleeves along with large and elaborate underarm gussets and embellished neckline, both front and back.

, unlike other garments, lacks any lining. Although the piece is completely hand-embroidered, it is machine-stitched. 

It is noteworthy that garments like this, due to their ground fabric, can be referred to as (thawb_mnaykhil

Thawb_mnaykhil: (Arabic: minkhal – sieve), a term locally used in Saudi Arabia to refer to a thawb constructed of a reticulate tulle akin to a mesh or sieve.

). Additionally, some may use the term (thawb_sahabi

Thawb_ saḥābī: (Arabic: saḥb – the act of pulling or dragging), a term locally used in Saudi Arabia to refer to a thawb with long trains or tail, which is pulled along by the wearer when moving around.

) to describe it for its distinctive long train. 

However, it is important to clarify that these terms are not synonymous, as each refers to distinct characteristics. Nevertheless, when a thawb Thawb: (Arabic: thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thobe Thobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women in the Arabian Gulf region.   exhibits the defining features of both categories, it may be identified by either name. 

Links

• https://www.folkculturebh.org/ar/?issue=35&page=showarticle&id=673 
• Alghalib, L. F., Alireza, H., & Wilding, R. (Eds.). Traditional costumes of Saudi Arabia: The Mansoojat Foundation Collection. ACC Art Books, 2021.  
• ثوب منيخل: https://oldclothes11.blogspot.com/2019/03/blog
• https://youtu.be/T3QocPeJeT4
• https://youtu.be/YzZxsKo5aHE