• HOME
  • |
  • ABOUT
  • |
  • COLLECTION
    • DIGITAL ARCHIVE
    • DICTIONARY
    • BLOG
  • |
  • EVENTS
  • |
  • MEDIA
    • PRESS
    • NEWSLETTER
  • |
  • FRIENDS
  • |
  • SHOP
  • Login
  • عربي
  • |
  • EN
  • CONTACT US
  • PARTNERS
  • DIRECTORY
  • NEWSLETTER
  • VIDEOS
  • SHOP
Newsletter

Privacy Policy

© TheZayInitiative - All images and All content are protected by copyright. All rights are reserved, written permission is required before re-use.

UK: Registered Charity (#1182725) Regulated by Charity Commission for England and Wales.

Support The Zay
Donate
Website devloped by Eng.Talal Hisham Sultan
TOP
  • Example
    Example
    Product Image 1
  • Example
    Example
    Product Image 2
  • Example
    Example
    Product Image 3
  • Example
    Example
    Product Image 4
  • Example
    Example
    Product Image 5
  • Example
    Example
    Product Image 6
  • Example
    Example
    Product Image 7
  • Example
    Example
    Product Image 8

1 of 8

  • Product Image 1
  • Product Image 2
  • Product Image 3
  • Product Image 4
  • Product Image 5
  • Product Image 6
  • Product Image 7
  • Product Image 8

Silk chemise – Iraq

Back
Local NameGömlek
Object CategoryUndergarment    
GenderFemale    
Date of objectc. 20th century
Place Of orginIraq
RegionIraq
Object RangeIraq
DimensionsLength: 99 cm Width: 42 cm
MaterialsSilk    Other    
TechniqueMachine Stitched    Print    
Color
MotifGeometric    Abstract    
ProvenanceGifted, Amah Salimah, 1984
LocationThe Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative
StatusIn Storage
ZI numberZI1984.500916.1a IRAQ

Object Features  

This is a woman’s knee-length slip or chemise (gömlek Gömlek: (Proto-Turkic: köyŋelek – Shirt; Azerbaijani: köynək – Shirt; Turkmen: koynek­ – long loose tunic dress), a traditional calf-length sleeved undershirt or tunic generally made of a plain white cotton, silk, or linen fabric, some more lightweight than others, worn by both Ottoman men and women of all communities throughout the empire. ) often worn as an undergarment with the front open robe (sayah

Ṣāyah: (Classical Persian: sāya – shadow; Synonyms: zubūn, qumbāz, gombaz

Gombaz: (Arabic; Synonyms: sayah, zubūn, qumbāz, yalak

Yalak: (Ottoman Turkic: yelek – a hip or waist length vest; from Old Anatolian: yélek – Vest), a short-sleeved waistcoat traditionally worn by men and a long outer robe or tight jacket either sleeveless or short sleeved with a tight bodice traditionally worn by women in the Ottoman controlled Levant.

),  also pronounced ‘umbaz or ‘imbaz is a long front open, unlined, lightweight silk traditional cloak either with quarter or no sleeves fastened at the waist often worn by both men and women in the Levant, Fertile Crescent, and Najd regions. 

, yalak

Yalak: (Ottoman Turkic: yelek – a hip or waist length vest; from Old Anatolian: yélek – Vest), a short-sleeved waistcoat traditionally worn by men and a long outer robe or tight jacket either sleeveless or short sleeved with a tight bodice traditionally worn by women in the Ottoman controlled Levant.

), long front open, unlined, lightweight silk traditional cloak with quarter or no sleeves fastened at the waist often worn by men and women in the Levant, Fertile Crescent, and Najd regions.

). The chemise is made of a printed black and white silk with an elastane blend fabric, along with black floral lace trimming.  

The gömlek Gömlek: (Proto-Turkic: köyŋelek – Shirt; Azerbaijani: köynək – Shirt; Turkmen: koynek­ – long loose tunic dress), a traditional calf-length sleeved undershirt or tunic generally made of a plain white cotton, silk, or linen fabric, some more lightweight than others, worn by both Ottoman men and women of all communities throughout the empire.  displays a wide V-shaped lace neckline and a pair of black silk ribbon straps. The bottom hem of the chemise has a scalloped finished hem. The field of the piece displays large white repeats of polka dots.  

Iraq, located south of Türkiye, was a significant Arab territory under the rule of the Ottoman Empire for approximately four centuries. In the northern province of Mosul, which was then under Ottoman rule, the prevalent modes of dress were heavily influenced by the fashion trends originating in Istanbul. 


Links 

  • Zieme, Peter. Silk and Wad in Old Turkish Terminology. - Turkdilleri.Org, www.turkdilleri.org/turkdilleri/sayilar/tda7/PZieme.pdf 
  • Vogelsang-Eastwood, Gillian. Encyclopedia of Embroidery from the Arab World. Bloomsbury Academic, 2016.  
  • Stillman, Yedida Kalfon, and Norman A. Stillman. Arab Dress: From the Dawn of Islam to Modern Times. Brill, 2003.  
  • Scarce, Jennifer. Womens Costume of the near and the Middle East. RoutledgeCurzon, 2003.  
  • Rubens, Alfred. A History of Jewish Costume. 1981.  
  • “Clothing And Fashion, Middle East" Encyclopedia of Western Colonialism since 1450. . Encyclopedia.Com. 8 Jan. 2024 .” Encyclopedia.Com, Encyclopedia.com, 29 Jan. 2024, www.encyclopedia.com/history/encyclopedias-almanacs-transcripts-and-maps/clothing-and-fashion-middle-east.  
  • Baghdad, 10th Century the Dress of a Non-Muslim Woman, sayyidajahanara.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/baghdad-costume.pdf. Accessed 29 Jan. 2024.  
  • A Charuga

    Charuga: (Possibly Kurdish), a mantle-like embroidered women’s traditional garment from the Qaraqosh region in northern Iraq, traditionally fastened at the shoulder. Historically worn by field workers, it helped conceal dust and dirt, making them less visible during labour, it is a festive garment worn sparingly during festivals and other special occasions.  

    from Northern Iraq Has Arrived at the TRC!
    , www.trc-leiden.nl/trc/index.php/en/blog/1378-the-charuga

    Charuga: (Possibly Kurdish), a mantle-like embroidered women’s traditional garment from the Qaraqosh region in northern Iraq, traditionally fastened at the shoulder. Historically worn by field workers, it helped conceal dust and dirt, making them less visible during labour, it is a festive garment worn sparingly during festivals and other special occasions.  

    -from-northern-iraq-has-arrvied-at-the-trc. Accessed 29 Jan. 2024.  
  • “Clothing.” Kurdish Central, 18 Nov. 2021, kurdishcentral.org/clothing/.  
  • Foundation, Encyclopaedia Iranica. “Clothing of the Kurdish Jews.” Encyclopaedia Iranica, iranicaonline.org/articles/clothing-xvii. Accessed 29 Jan. 2024.  
  • “Learn about Kurdish Dress.” The Kurdish Project, 2 Aug. 2016, thekurdishproject.org/history-and-culture/kurdish-culture/kurdish-dress/.  
Parts from the same set:

    Related Products