A Peek into the Traditional Urban Moroccan Wardrobe (19th-20th century) Part i Cultural Dress

Introduction

Morocco’s history, like that of many nations, is both ancient and multifaceted. Geographically positioned at the crossroads of Africa and Europe, Morocco has long been a meeting point for diverse cultural influences. This cultural richness is reflected in the interactions between its indigenous populations, particularly the Berbers, and neighbouring civilizations, including Arab, African, and Mediterranean European communities. These varied influences have contributed to the formation of Morocco’s unique cultural and historical landscape. 

During Classical Antiquity, when the Berbers formed the indigenous foundation of Moroccan society, the region that encompasses present-day Morocco was significantly influenced by ancient Phoenician civilization, particularly through maritime trade and cultural exchanges. The Phoenicians, renowned for their seafaring and commerce, established trading posts along the North African coast as early as the 12th century BCE, including sites within modern Morocco, such as Lixus and Mogador. 

These outposts facilitated interaction between the indigenous Berber populations and the broader Mediterranean world. By the 6th century BCE, Phoenician influence in the region intensified under the rise of Carthage, a powerful Phoenician colony in modern-day Tunisia. Carthaginian expansion extended its control over Morocco, incorporating it into a broader Carthaginian sphere of influence. 

This integration not only brought economic and cultural ties but also paved the way for the region’s involvement in the Punic Wars and its eventual inclusion into the Roman Empire following Carthage’s defeat. The legacy of Phoenician and Carthaginian presence in Morocco is evident in the early development of trade, agriculture, and urbanisation in the region. 

Once again, the region became a crossroads of civilizations, welcoming waves of Arab conquerors during the Islamic expansion in the 7th and 8th centuries. These interactions brought not only Islamic traditions but also architectural and scholarly advancements. Over time, African and Andalusian influences—particularly from Spain’s Moorish communities—further enriched Moroccan urban centres. 

The Middle Ages saw the flourishing of cities like Fez, Marrakech, and Rabat, which became hubs of trade, learning, and art, reflecting this diverse heritage. During the period of Ottoman expansion and subsequent domination of North Africa, spanning from the 16th to the early 20th century, Morocco maintained complex political and cultural relations with the Ottomans. Although the Ottoman’s briefly succeeded in capturing Fez in the 16th century, Morocco was never fully integrated into the Ottoman Empire and retained its independence, unlike its neighbours.  

However, despite this political autonomy, Ottoman influence in Moroccan society was felt in various ways, particularly through military tactics, architecture, and diplomatic exchanges. Cultural exchanges between the two powers contributed to Morocco’s evolving identity, blending indigenous, Arab, Berber, and Ottoman elements, especially in urban centres like Fez and Marrakech. 

Later, during the French and Spanish colonial periods in the 19th and early 20th centuries, European influences permeated the social and cultural landscape, reshaping urban development and governance. This multi-layered historical evolution has made Morocco’s cities dynamic spaces of cultural fusion, where the legacies of Berber, Arab, African, Turkic and European elements continue to shape societal and architectural expressions. 

The culturally rich elements that have emerged from Morocco’s complex historical development are particularly evident in its couture traditions, perhaps more so than in other aspects of its material culture. This essay will discuss the components of the urban Moroccan wardrobe in the early 20th century, with a special focus on the Moroccan ‘qaftan’, exploring their possible influences and origins. 

Urban Moroccan Menswear 

The early 20th-century urban fashion for Moroccan men was as diverse as that of Moroccan women. Men’s attire during this period encompassed a broad spectrum, ranging from basic garments to more specialised forms of dress. 

The Moroccan Jalābah: 

A Moroccan jalābah; Credit: Amine Charnoubi; Source:  https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Moroccan_djellaba.jpg 

The jalābah was one of the most prevalent outer garments worn by Moroccan men. This ankle-length garment, characterised by short sleeves, a hood, and small side slits, was typically crafted from locally sourced wool or imported flannel. The jalābah was available in various colours and striped patterns, with the white version often associated with aristocracy. While generally draped in a casual manner, the garment’s elegance was accentuated by the wearer’s skill in draping, as it was customary to fold the hood back over a turban or fez, adding a layer of refinement to the ensemble. 

The Selhām: 

The selhām is an outer garment traditionally worn by men, often layered over the jalābah or casually draped over the shoulders. This front-open, typically sleeveless cloak is distinguished by its adornment with silk passementerie trimmings. Like the jalābah, the  selhām  features a hood, though the latter is often embellished with a silk tassel. Typically crafted from dark-coloured fabric, the selhām was primarily intended for winter wear, but it was also worn during the summer by men who sought to maintain an air of elegance. 

The Men’s Tchamir / Tashāmīr: 

The tashāmīr is a traditional long shirt worn by men, typically made from white cotton. Characterised by its wide sleeves, the garment often necessitates the use of wristbands to hold or tie the sleeves when worn beneath outer garments with narrow sleeves. The tashāmīr is frequently embellished at the collar with intricate needle lace trimming, commonly referred to as randah. Its standing collar, a distinctive feature, is usually fastened at the sides, adding to the garment’s refined appearance. 

The Men’s Șarwāl: 

Different Ottoman style trousers; Title:; Source: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Baş_Falakacı.jpg 

Zouave style unform trousers from Algeria similar to Moroccan şarwāl; Title: Algerian soldier of the French Army wearing seroual trousers as part of his zouave style uniform 1913. Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sirwal#/media/File:Magic_City2,_Paris,_1913.jpeg 

The şarwāl is a type of trousers typically fastened at the waist using drawstrings. Thought to have originated as an Ottoman garment, the şarwāl is characterised by its loose and baggy fit around the waist, transitioning into tightly tapering cuffs at the calves. In contrast to women’s şarwāl, the men’s version is often integrated into a broader ensemble, reflecting its role within traditional male attire. 

The Bid’īyah: 

The bid’īyah is a traditional men’s waistcoat, typically worn in pairs as part of a larger ensemble, much like the şarwāl. Although both waistcoats or bed’īyah (plural) are adorned with frog fastener style buttons, the top bid’īyah is usually sleeveless and not fastened, while the bottom one, referred to as bid’īyah sulfah (lower vest) is fastened with long slitted sleeves. These waistcoats are often crafted from dark fabric that complements the şarwāl and are commonly embellished with decorative passementerie threads, either in silk or metal, adding a refined aesthetic to the overall attire. 

The Mentān / Kabūt: 

The mentān is a traditional men’s short jacket, forming part of a larger ensemble in Moroccan attire. Characterised by long, narrow sleeves that are typically slit from the cuffs to the elbows, the slits are fastened by a series of buttons. The jacket is secured at the neckline with a single button, offering a refined and tailored appearance. Often crafted from the same material and adorned with similar decorations as the şarwāl and bed’īyah, the mentān contributes to the cohesive aesthetic of the ensemble, reinforcing its formal and coordinated nature.  

It is noteworthy that the term mentān, likely derives from the Turkish word mintan, referring to a short jacket with slitted sleeves traditionally worn by Ottoman men, and later by women as well. In contrast, the word kabūt, is believed to have been derived from the English word ‘coat’, highlighting the diverse linguistic and cultural influences that have shaped Moroccan attire. 

The Jabādhol: 

The jabādhol is a fully front-open, long, collarless robe that closely resembles the jalābah. Typically crafted from fine fabrics, this garment features long sleeves with buttoned fastenings at the forearms. It is not worn as a standalone piece, but rather as part of a coordinated ensemble, reflecting its role within the broader context of urban traditional Moroccan attire for men. 

Draping and Layering: Kiswah al Mahsūr: 

The first traditional men’s ensemble from urban Morocco to be examined in this article is the kiswah al mahsūr, which, as the name implies, refers to a fitted (al mahsūr) dress or covering (kiswah). This fitted, four-piece suit is a layered ensemble consisting of two waistcoats—the bid’īyah and the bid’īyah sulfah—followed by the mentān for the torso and a pair of şarwāl for the legs. 

When an overgarment, such as the jabādhol, is draped over these layers, the ensemble is referred to as the kiswah khumāsīyah (five garments). Typically worn by affluent merchants, traders, and sailors, the kiswah al mahsūr was primarily considered an indoor garment. Merchants, however, would add the jabādhol when venturing outdoors. In contrast, sailors often omitted the outer robe, giving rise to the name libsah al marsāwiyah or “sailor’s outfit,” with ‘libsah’ derived from the Arabic libās meaning dress, and ‘marsāwiyah’ originating from ’marsā’, meaning port. 

Conclusion

In conclusion, the kiswah al mahsūr represents a quintessential example of traditional urban Moroccan menswear, reflecting both the societal status and cultural practices of its wearers up until the first quarter of the 20th century. This layered ensemble, varying in its application among merchants, traders, and sailors, highlights the intricacy and diversity of Moroccan male attire during this period. The kiswah al mahsūr—with its complex structure and tailored elements—offers a glimpse into the careful craftsmanship and symbolic importance of clothing in Moroccan society. In the following instalments, we shall explore other key elements of traditional Moroccan menswear, including the qaftan, waistbands, and headwear such as the iconic fez, along with the significance of these accessories in both everyday life and ceremonial contexts. We will also examine traditional urban Moroccan women’s attire, along with their accompanying accessories and draped garments.