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Embellished linen veil – Egypt EGYPT

Back
Local NameTarfottet
Object CategoryHeadwear    
GenderFemale    
Date of objectc. 19th – 20th century
Place Of orginEgypt
RegionEgypt
Object RangeEgypt
DimensionsLength: 174 cm Width: 200 cm
MaterialsSilk    Linen    
TechniqueHand Embroidered    Woven    
Color
MotifGeometric    
ProvenancePurchased, Anonymous, Egypt 2021
LocationThe Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative
StatusIn Storage
ZI numberZI2021.500954d EGYPT

Object Note  

Part of a lot with six more items (ZI2021.500954 EGYPT, ZI2021.500954a EGYPT, ZI2021.500954b EGYPT, ZI2021.500954c EGYPT, ZI2021.500954e EGYPT and ZI2021.500954f EGYPT) also in the collection. 


Object History 

This piece was purchased by Dr. Reem Tariq

Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.

El Mutwalli Dr. Reem Tariq

Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.

el Mutwallī: Founder (CEO) of the Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative, a public figure, speaker and author. An expert curator and consultant in Islamic art and architecture, interior design, historic costume, and UAE heritage.
in Egypt in 2021 to be added to and enhance the Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative collection. 

Originally part of the Shahira Mehrez collection, the piece was purchased by a previous collector who remains anonymous to The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period.. Ms Mehrez graciously guided Dr Reem and The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. in sourcing the item from them for the benefit of The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative.  

Ms. Shahira Mehrez is recognised as one of Egypt's foremost costume historians and collectors, and she serves as an honorary advisor to The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative. Born into an affluent Egyptian family during the British occupation, Ms. Mehrez was educated in French schools, with French often being the language spoken at home. Nevertheless, her family was committed to ensuring she learned Arabic and hired a religious teacher to help her memorise the Quran. 

Ms. Mehrez is the author of Costumes of Egypt: The Lost Legacies and holds a postgraduate master's degree in Islamic art and architecture, a field she pursued after discovering her passion for Egyptian heritage and folklore, despite originally earning an undergraduate bachelor's degree in chemistry. She has been deeply dedicated to preserving Egyptian handicrafts, folklore, and traditional costumes, spanning from the ancient Egyptian civilisation to the present day. In her efforts to expand her research, Ms. Mehrez has collected various traditional costumes from twelve different regions across Egypt. 


Object Features  

This is a women’s rectangular outer wrap (tarfottet) panel of woven linen featuring embroidered embellishment in the centre. 

It is a (selvedge Selvedge: (English: Self-finished edge or self-edge: a dialect forming transition), an edge produced on woven fabric during manufacture that prevents it from unravelling. Traditionally the term selvage applied to only loom woven fabric, presently it could be applied to flat knitted fabric too. ) to selvedge Selvedge: (English: Self-finished edge or self-edge: a dialect forming transition), an edge produced on woven fabric during manufacture that prevents it from unravelling. Traditionally the term selvage applied to only loom woven fabric, presently it could be applied to flat knitted fabric too.  woven panel primarily in blue and ivory, with a broad central panel embellished in (blanket_stitch Blanket_stitch: A basic sewing stitch used to secure the edges of fabric or create decorative borders by looping the thread over the edges of blankets, quilts, and other fabrics and pulling it through, forming a series of evenly spaced stitches that resemble a chain. ) style embroidery in red, (coral Coral: (Greek: korallion, probably from Hebrew: goral – small pebbles), is a pale to medium shade of pink with orange or peach undertones, resembling the colour of certain species of coral.), orange, and black silk floss Floss: (Old French: flosche – nap of velvet), is a type of silk fibre obtained from the cocoons of wild silkworms. It is characterized by its long, fluffy fibers that are not tightly woven, making it ideal for use in various textile applications such as embroidery, lace-making, and sewing. threads with horizontal panels of several geometric shapes – rhomboidal, triangular – emulating fish, and candelabra. The central panel runs vertically along the field of the piece.  


More Info 

Often part of women’s traditional costume from Siwa, Egypt, this kind of wrap is usually decorated with matching patterns as the rest of the outfit. Women would usually use another wrap underneath the tarfottet to cover their head and face, and would often pair it with a prominent and statement piece of jewellery of Berber origin.  

The taroffet veil originates from the Nile Valley, specifically in the village of Kerdassa near Cairo. For centuries, artisans from this village have specialised in crafting these veils primarily for the people of Siwa. However, the taroffet has also found its way into the bustling streets of Cairo and various regions along the Nile. In Siwa, these veils are adorned with intricate embroidery, reminiscent of the ornate designs found on ceremonial attire. 


Links 

  • Mehrez, S. Costumes of Egypt. First, Institut Français D’Archéologie Orientale, 2023. 
  • Rugh, A. B. Reveal and Conceal. First, Syracuse University Press, 1986. 
  • Bos, J. Egypt’s Wearable Heritage. First, Blikvelduitgevers Publishers, 2016. 
  • RAWI Egypt’s Heritage Review, no. 11, 2021. 
  • Devine, Dawn, and Alisha Westerfeld. The Cloth of Egypt All About Assiut: Assiut – Asyut – Tulle-Bi-Telli. Ibexa Press, 2014.  
  • Golden Ages, Dark Ages: Imagining the Past in Anthropology and History. United States, University of California Press, 2021. 
  • Baker, Patricia L. A History of Islamic Court Dress in the Middle East, Thesis (Ph.D.) - University of London, 1986.  
  • Ahmed, Doaa, and Marwa Yassin. “The art of traditional embroidery of Siwa Oasis as an inspiration source for the design of innovative woven women’s clothing fabrics.” International Design Journal, vol. 13, no. 4, 1 July 2023, pp. 235–257, https://doi.org/10.21608/idj.2023.305345. 
  • Lugatism. “Headwear and Footwear in the Mamluk Sultanate (1250–1517 CE).” Lugatism, 14 Feb. 2024, https://lugatism.wordpress.com/2022/06/22/headwear-and-footwear-in-the-mamluk-sultanate-2/ 
  • “The Tanzimat Reforms (1839–76).” Encyclopædia Britannica, Encyclopædia Britannica, inc., www.britannica.com/place/Ottoman-Empire/The-Tanzimat-reforms-1839-76. Accessed 31 Mar. 2024. 
  • “Ancient Egyptian Agriculture.” Ancient Egyptian Agriculture  | Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations, https://www.fao.org/country-showcase/item-detail/en/c/1287824/#:~:text=Their%20farming%20practices%20allowed%20them,field%20planting%20in%20the%20floodplains. 
  • Maadi, CSA. “Ten Thousand Years of Wearing Linen.” CSA Reviving Community, CSA Reviving Community, 3 Aug. 2023, https://csa-living.org/oasis-blog/ten-thousand-years-of-wearing-linen 

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