Description
ANTERI – Ottoman Turkey, early 20th century Comprising an anteri dress, polychrome-stripes woven in purple, ivory, green, and shocking pink silks brocaded in gilt metal thread with vegetal patterns, the scalloped edges interfaced with biased-cut cotton, lined in ivory satin, edged with gilt braiding, the sleeves lined in shot purple silk, and striped patterned silk, 141cm length at the back.
The anteri (also spelled “entari”) is a caftan worn by women in Ottoman Turkey in the 16th and 17th centuries. The anteri was usually full length, like the outer caftan, but not quilted or padded. They were slightly less elaborately decorated than the outer caftan, but still were often made from brocades and figured silks. Like the outer caftan, it is assembled from side gores, front overlaps, two front body panels and one back body panel. Sleeves are cut square and not set in and can be either elbow length or extra long and worn pushed up on the forearms. The real difference between the outer caftan and the anteri is that the anteri is fitted close to the body while the outer caftan retained the boxy shape of the men’s caftans.
Women’s everyday wear was şalvar (trousers), a gömlek (chemise) that came down to the mid-calf or ankle, a short, fitted jacket called a zıbın, and a sash or belt tied at or just below the waist. For formal occasions, such as visiting friends, the woman added an entari or kaftan, a long robe that was cut like the zıbın apart from the length. Both zıbın and kaftan were buttoned to the waist, leaving the skirts open in front. Both garments also had buttons all the way to the throat, but were often buttoned only to the underside of the bust, leaving the garments to gape open over the bust. All of these clothes could be brightly colored and patterned. However, when a woman left the house, she covered her clothes with a ferace, a dark, modestly cut robe that buttoned all the way to the throat. She also covered her hair and face with a pair of veils.
الصورة: زي
عنتابي}: أصل المفردة}
لباس عثماني نسائي يعود إلى بدايات القرن العشرين. يشبه القفطان أو العباءة الضيقة عند الخصر. تمّت خياطته من البروكار المقلّم طولياً والمنسوج من الحرير الخالص وخيوط الذهب بألوان العاجي والبنفسجي والوردي والأخضر العشبي، والتي تفصل فيما بينها أقلام ذهبية. والرداء عبارة عن ثلاثة مقاطع طولية أساسية، أُضيف إليه من الأمام عند منطقة الخصر مثلثين قاعدتهما إلى الأسفل، ومثلثين جانبيين آخرين لمنح الرداء اتساعاً من نصفه السفلي. كما تمّ قص جميع حواف القفطان كأنصاف دوائر تُركت بعضها ظاهرة، بما فيها الجانبين الأنسيّين من الكمّين من عند منطقة الكوع إلى نهايتهما حيث تم تطريز هاتين النهايتين بأشكال نباتية مخرّمة. ولإظهار جمالية تلك الأشكال وضعت تحتها بطانة مارونية، فيما أضيفت صفوف عديدة من البريم الذهبي والفضي لجميع حواف الرداء المبطن بالحرير الأبيض بدءاً من نهاية ياقته التي تشبه الحزام.